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Thread: Off Road Wheels

  1. #1
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    Off Road Wheels

    Whats everyone doing for Off Road Wheels Alloys / Steels etc ?

    I have purchased an Amarok which has come on 20" Wheels with bloody good tyres, wanting to move to something in maybe a 17" with good rubber and more sidewall without breaking the bank (the Ute purchase already did that!).

    Would be keen to swap, trouble is the Amarok is an odd 5x120 PCD with a +30-35 Offset.

  2. #2
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    I’m running the Sniper alloys. Not many companies doing a 17” off-road alloy these days. Most start at 18”. These are weight rated higher than a steel rim. $400ish a corner I think I paid. Way nicer on the road compared to the shaky old steel rims that never balance up right.
    I don’t do any hard out 4WDing but they’ve been fine for what I get up to. Got them from Mag and Turbo.

    I imagine with the amount you paid for the Amarok, you won’t be taking it anywhere too crazy.

  3. #3
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    Thanks McNotty, I will look into them!
    Yea, will wait until the gloss wears off before I start going to extreme.
    Hoping to do a few of the less agressive Doc 4wd tracks that almost any 4wd ute could do! Maybe push back country a little more etc. Not wanting to traverse into deep bogs or narrow rock crawling.

  4. #4
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    Could as an option have a look around for a set of factory alloys and tyres - people do exactly what's happened with yours and put them on pavement poncing wheels that are BS for anything offroad. They then sell off the factory wheels with usually near new rubber, I've picked up Ranger wheels at $50 a corner and when you wear the rubber out you can usually sell them back off at a reasonable whack for people wanting a spare set of wheels or to replace a couple of kerbed factory feet.

    Get you going for reasonably cheap????

  5. #5
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    Thanks No. 3, I have definately considered this option! Seen them for $40 a corner! Would definately allow for more $ towards rubber etc. I just wasnt sure if the Factory 17"s would be up to the task?

  6. #6
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    Usually steel rims are recommended for such things as mud tyres. Alloys with M/T don't have the same strength and the rims are know to crack in some situations. Then again steel rims much heavier and not great for fuel econmony with M/T. Also alloys with there big gaps when in shingle river beds can allow stones to interfere/damage your brake system.

  7. #7
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    Method Wheels

  8. #8
    Member 199p's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunteast View Post
    Usually steel rims are recommended for such things as mud tyres. Alloys with M/T don't have the same strength and the rims are know to crack in some situations. Then again steel rims much heavier and not great for fuel econmony with M/T. Also alloys with there big gaps when in shingle river beds can allow stones to interfere/damage your brake system.
    Was a ranger that got stranded in a shallow river crossing a rock got in the wheel and broke a spoke off the wheel
    Konus binoculars " The power to imagine"

  9. #9
    Village Idjit Barefoot's Avatar
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    Think there are some factory steel Amarok wheels in the shed somewhere if you want them.
    trooper90 likes this.
    The Biggest Room is the Room for Improvement

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi-adam View Post
    Thanks No. 3, I have definately considered this option! Seen them for $40 a corner! Would definately allow for more $ towards rubber etc. I just wasnt sure if the Factory 17"s would be up to the task?
    Some of the strongest alloy wheels you can get are the factory options - liability and all... If I was replacing non-factory for off road work I'd be seriously considering factory as that really opens your options up for tyres. Plus you have the option keeping your 20's and swapping the 17's over when you need muds, or even getting a set of factory alloys with boots for $40 a corner and running them while you flog the 20's and then get another set of factory feet and picking your tyre of choice for mud/4x4 work. That gives you good economical road tyres and a set of decent offroad boots for 4x4 work where you don't mind the fuel bill going up...

    If you are pushing your wheels hard enough to break alloys you are literally on the limits of the ball joints, CV's, suspension components etc with these new lighter weight vehicles - plus I've seen steel wheels bent to the point that they have destroyed the brakes and sensors behind them so things like getting rocks breaking spokes out of an alloy is a bit of bad management or luck basically. If you're doing that, you're in the position of busting something it's just a question of what.
    Savage1, JoshC, BRADS and 2 others like this.

 

 

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