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Thread: Reusing Auto Engines.

  1. #61
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    A 1UZ is pretty compact and light for what it is. The Beamer mention above was cast iron block and alloy head if I remember correctly, and the 1U was 2 cylinders shorter and 20kg lighter, with double the power and torque. There's a shit load avail off the shelf for turning the humble Lexus into a boat motor too.
    Yeah, I think the output is too much motor if you catch my drift. I think for a 280 or 290 leg it would be good, but that would have to start with a whole new transom I think.
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  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    They are geared for the B30 at 5k.
    So high rpm engines are probably out unless gearing can be changed?
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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    So high rpm engines are probably out unless gearing can be changed?
    I don't think there would be any issue going up to around 6k. May need a prop change. Think gear changes would be difficult to obtain.
    veitnamcam likes this.
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  4. #64
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    Leyland P76 may be worth considering. Cheap to buy already marinised from the jet boat crowd, develops good HP, lightweight at about 150kg plus accessories.

  5. #65
    GWH
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    Quote Originally Posted by longrange308 View Post
    Commy v6 or vq series
    Won’t get the torque with a 4 cylinder
    Those old 3.8L V6 Holden motors were built proof.

  6. #66
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    Was going to suggest a manual pumped qd32
    Late model Honda stuff turns the right way but you would need aftermarket ecu
    To get away from electronic throttles and other shit you don’t need
    gadgetman and Tommy like this.

  7. #67
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    Front runners look like the V6's, Buick 3.8, VQ30DE or VQ25DE. Most of the straight 6's seem to be from RWD vehicles that get thrashed by the wheel spinners. Buick would be best match speed wise but the Nissan's are within coeey.
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  8. #68
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    how is it cooled? if no heat exchanger I would stay away from alloy if used in salt water.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by ONYVA View Post
    how is it cooled? if no heat exchanger I would stay away from alloy if used in salt water.
    The current engine is raw water cooled. That with the fact it is about 45 years old and hard to get parts for makes me keen to do a swap. The replacement set up will have a heat exchanger added so that fresh water will continue to be used in the engine. Word is, from a US marine engine site, that it is not a good idea to add a heat exchanger to the old engine as the fresh water with anti freeze/boil will tend to find where the engine is corroded and eat out what is left.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  10. #70
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    I agree, anti freeze finds any leak

  11. #71
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    The Ford Bara engine might be worth a look as well. If you go aftermarket efi there is a surprisingly small number of sensors that you need to run an engine, in fact the megasquirt (and probably most others) can make an engine run with just the engine speed and manifold pressure sensors...
    My Range Rover is running with;
    Crank speed/position sensor
    MAP sensor
    Air intake temp
    Coolant temp
    Throttle position

    and sometimes a wideband O2 sensor

    The only outputs are
    4 ignition outputs (wasted spark)
    2 banks of injectors
    idle speed valve
    fuel pump relay

    They are really pretty simple when you strip away what isnt needed, a later engine with variable cam timing will need a cam position sensor as well

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    Front runners look like the V6's, Buick 3.8, VQ30DE or VQ25DE. Most of the straight 6's seem to be from RWD vehicles that get thrashed by the wheel spinners. Buick would be best match speed wise but the Nissan's are within coeey.
    Dam you
    Now I’m planing number 7
    gadgetman likes this.

 

 

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