Thread: Battery chainsaws

Originally Posted by XR500

Just bought the Stihl 140C at the Fieldays last week, so 2 days work with it doesn't really count. But its nice to have a saw that just sits there making no noise till you do a cut then shuts up again. But they are not as quiet as you would expect. Will still be wearing my helmet and muffs. Keeping them razor sharp and not doing any cuts near the ground seems to be key to maintaining their productivity.

So that means the short arses aren't allowed to use it hey?

Originally Posted by zimmer

https://youtu.be/9WDaTwEwhTk

Should have viewed this first b4 buying mine.

Just watched it, interesting - I feel like the run times are quite short but that is probably because it was continuous running and not cut stop cut like a normal use situation. The recharge times seem about right, you kind of need three batteries if you want to replicate the use of a petrol saw - one in use, one charged and one charging - but after that you're taking a break and the cost is shocking!

I got a toolshed brand just because I have that drill and driver. The 18v batteries fit their chainsaw. Takes 2 batteries. Had it a couple of years with no problems. Saw was about 180.00 and already had batteries. Can cut up about 4 x pallets for firewood before going flat. Good for garden pruning but not the sort of tool to cut down a pine tree.

I’ve also got a Stihl MSA200. In fact I have two.
I love it, awesome saw, battery seems to last forever. Chain saws aren’t popular in our neighbourhood, so aside from not mucking around with mixing fuel and cursing because it won’t start. Subtle tree trimming is very easy and no neighbours need be concerned ��

I’d happily sell the second one if anyone wants one. It’s practically brand new. You’d be hard pressed to know it’s been used.
I bought it used for a very good price to get a weed eater leaf blower and 2 batteries, someone was selling as a set.
If anyone’s interest me know.

Originally Posted by mopheadrob

I've got a Nordic. Seemed to go well initially, but I'm tempted to take it back for them to check because it seems to quit if there's any load at all on the chain. If I take it easy and keep the chain speed up with lots of little bites it will go through something up to 8" no worries, but larger diameter or too much resistance and it just stops and beeps at me.

Is the chain sharp and running a decent bar oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Using a Stihl MSA220 for work, nice to use. Need 3 batteries to get me to the afternoon though.

+1 for the Stihl. Not mine, but spent a fair bit of time behind one. On pine the same diameter as the bar (14"?) get about 13-15 rings cut on one charge, then 40ish mins to charge, which allows enough time to move and split what you've just cut... maybe even enough time for a cuppa or a cold one too if you're handy on the axe.

The chain chatters a bit on the thicker stuff, which - the pros might know better - I think it's the small guage chain not clearing the chips fast enough? Just ease pressure off and it's away again.

Two batts would be ideal if it's for work, but ones good enough if not. I think the saw is about 4 years old and no problems at all with a decent amount of use. Def hard to go back to a petrol saw for small stuff.

Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed

+1 for the Stihl. Not mine, but spent a fair bit of time behind one. On pine the same diameter as the bar (14"?) get about 13-15 rings cut on one charge, then 40ish mins to charge, which allows enough time to move and split what you've just cut... maybe even enough time for a cuppa or a cold one too if you're handy on the axe.

The chain chatters a bit on the thicker stuff, which - the pros might know better - I think it's the small guage chain not clearing the chips fast enough? Just ease pressure off and it's away again.

Two batts would be ideal if it's for work, but ones good enough if not. I think the saw is about 4 years old and no problems at all with a decent amount of use. Def hard to go back to a petrol saw for small stuff.

You mention “ chatter” in the cut

Here’s a 592 with the rakers taken down too far

You can really hear it as he settles into the second cut

With the rakers filed down the teeth are biting off more fibre than they can clear through their gullet

“ chatter” also occurs when you have uneven length/angles on the cutting teeth so some teeth are taking more material than others

When cutting ——smooth is fast!!!

Last point…….. a lower powered saw accentuates any chain sharpening inaccuracy’s

https://youtube.com/shorts/yq9xUAuNkbw?feature=share

Originally Posted by mopheadrob

I've got a Nordic. Seemed to go well initially, but I'm tempted to take it back for them to check because it seems to quit if there's any load at all on the chain. If I take it easy and keep the chain speed up with lots of little bites it will go through something up to 8" no worries, but larger diameter or too much resistance and it just stops and beeps at me.

Pretty sure thats a circuit protection feature on alot of battery operated tools these days

Sent from my SM-N981B using Tapatalk

I suspect with those guys that the exhaust on that saw might have had some work done too - seems to be the fashion in those parts. You're very right though re rakers and uneven teeth though, the numbers of chains I've seen that are almost new on the left side and below half on the right or vice versa is quite amazing - some of them fresh back from a shop grinder sharpen too! Bloody near impossible to get them to cut right like that, but take the high side back to where the low side is and reset the angles and raker heights and back cutting again. A lot of people reject the chains like that, but it doesn't take much work to reset the angles and lengths and get them going again. I had a ripping chain with 10deg top plates that had been burred a while back, elected to file it back to a standard crosscut as it took the least off the cutters. That wasn't much more work than sharpening a standard chain.

I think you can get away with a few angles off spec from what is 'right' provided the cutters are sharp and everything is equal, more so than if the lengths and raker heights are on the piss. Also, it seems that you need a few rings cut after a fresh sharpen before the chain settles back down again and works it's way back to being dull and needing a tickle up. I suspect on a fresh sharpen the teeth are biting a bit hard and then bouncing same as with the uneven raker heights, and it settles down after a few runs through timber.

Originally Posted by MCCPRO

Pretty sure thats a circuit protection feature on alot of battery operated tools these days

Sent from my SM-N981B using Tapatalk

Could possibly be a crook protection circuit in a battery pack - I have one here that the cells all check out when individually tested and everything works right but with a bit of load on it the thing shuts of and the tool stops. Plug it into charge, and the charger says fully charged. Seems to work OK on light drains like a torch or a drill using a small drill, but on grinders or circ or recipro saws it shuts off virtually straight away.

Not the OP's original question but my DeWalt 16inch leaks chain oil all the time and is a bit of a cunt in that regard

Hasn't put me off electrics as a small saw but will get a Stihl or Husky next time

Originally Posted by No.3

Could possibly be a crook protection circuit in a battery pack - I have one here that the cells all check out when individually tested and everything works right but with a bit of load on it the thing shuts of and the tool stops. Plug it into charge, and the charger says fully charged. Seems to work OK on light drains like a torch or a drill using a small drill, but on grinders or circ or recipro saws it shuts off virtually straight away.

Soldered connection between batteries breaking down??

Originally Posted by No.3

Could possibly be a crook protection circuit in a battery pack - I have one here that the cells all check out when individually tested and everything works right but with a bit of load on it the thing shuts of and the tool stops. Plug it into charge, and the charger says fully charged. Seems to work OK on light drains like a torch or a drill using a small drill, but on grinders or circ or recipro saws it shuts off virtually straight away.

Thanks, good info! So is it possible to test the batteries to diagnose, or do I need to try the saw with different batteries?

a different battery will tell yo ustraight away if its your battery...