Has that 56” even been on a saw since I made a loop for it?
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Has that 56” even been on a saw since I made a loop for it?
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One of the coolest "chainsaw things" I've seen . . . . Paul Wilson (or was it Adams) of Jacob's River, South Westland . . . A heck of a good bushman/businessman, and one of the largest girthed blokes you'd ever meet!
But could he run a saw. Mid 1980s as I recall. My Dad wanted some Totara slabs for tables, Paul said he knew where there a big downed log, and he was surely right, it was at least 6' diameter, maybe 7' Paul cut perfect 2.5" thick x 12' long slabs off it at full width after opening it out. Perfectly even and flat just like they'd come off a mill, all done with a bar of about 40 or maybe 42 cutting from both sides. I got an end off o e slab and still have the coffee table I made from it.
Paul had at that time recently supplied the massive Totara beams that were carved for the meeting house in Te Papa. You'd have to go a long way to meet a prouder, more generous and Maori man of absolute integrity
One of the coolest "chainsaw things" I've seen . . . . Paul Wilson (or was it Adams) of Jacob's River, South Westland . . . A heck of a good bushman/businessman, and one of the largest girthed blokes you'd ever meet!
But could he run a saw. Mid 1980s as I recall. My Dad wanted some Totara slabs for tables, Paul said he knew where there a big downed log, and he was surely right, it was at least 6' diameter, maybe 7' Paul cut perfect 2.5" thick x 12' long slabs off it at full width after opening it out. Perfectly even and flat just like they'd come off a mill, all done with a bar of about 40 or maybe 42 cutting from both sides. I got an end off o e slab and still have the coffee table I made from it.
Paul had at that time recently supplied the massive Totara beams that were carved for the meeting house in Te Papa. You'd have to go a long way to meet a prouder, more generous and Maori man of absolute integrity
"A pile of 024's..." Yeah, ok - times like this I realise that maybe I don't have a problem after all haha. I swing between my usual two saws and anything up to 6 or 7 of various types that I get as play saws to fix up. I def don't have a pile of anything saw related except maybe bars and chains!!!
The 046/MS460 is a good size, I have a lot more respect for them after doing the rebuild on the squashed one I got. I like the design more than the 044/MS440 as it doesn't have the sleeve/collar on the clutch side that the seal runs on - this can give issues I hear and I had one come through that leaked between the collar and crank shaft. Not enough to damage anything but enough to make it not tuneable.
My usual 'big' saw is a MS361, which is for what I need pretty much perfectly sized. I don't need much over a 22" bar, that goes through just about everything I have on hand even if I have to go from both sides. I can see the attraction in the 046/881 combo though, makes a lot of sense. Better than trying to do everything with a MS660, lugging one of those around all day when you don't have to would get ordinary fairly quickly. The 046 is a lot more handy and that much easier to swing and a little cheaper to feed...
Would be my favourite size too as an all round saw. Done literally thousands of hours waste thinning on 044/440/441/462. Perfect power to weight ratio I reckon, and they’re reliable as. Will grab the 441 for firewood over my 660/661 these days, unless logs are big and need ripped. Found this freshly traded 440 at stihl shop a couple years back, absolutely mint, couldn’t leave it sitting there [emoji23]
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Had my two petrol saws out over the last couple of days doing some firewood. Shed is nearly full again.:)
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Yeah I have a similar split for me usual two saws except MS361 and MS260, with an 044 'slant fin/10mm pin/red lever' (whatever you want to call it) as the big one I have hanging around at the mo. The 361 was brand new German assembled when I got it, nice saw and only really just starting to work at full go now (taken a while to break in). The 260 is ex a yard contractor and used hard on everything including palm and punga, very hard on saws those palm fibres. Done a lot of work and a little chewed out around the clutch area on the crankcase, but cannot fault how it runs! Only thing I don't like on it is the non-adjustable oil pump driven directly off the crankshaft. I've got my eye out for a non-running 026 Pro or 260C with the adjustable pump kit in it... The 044 is the granddaddy of the bunch, rode hard put away wet looking saw but mint where it matters and runs like a beast. I was thinking about tidying it up, but it runs so well I'm really hesitant to touch it.
Bought this last week as a stand in while saw is being seen too. Done a few branches and a couple stays/stay holes.
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Sounds like a kids toy but done the job so far. Its no Sthil but for $250 u get what u pay for….It’s gonna have to cos now have have to make a decision to repair or replace other saw…..
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If there's any doubt about it get a new saw you can trust and then you have the choice to either repair the old saw and keep it as a backup, repair and sell at best (might not be viable economically) or selling it for someone else to repair and recover the $$$ that you can out of it... That sounds a bit defeatist in the world of fixing saws being manly etc etc but if it isn't your core business or a hobby thing you do for fun it's probably not worth getting the kit you need to do it.
On a side note, I just got given a lightly used Homelite 46cc saw which is to be used as a donated asset for a volunteer unit - interesting thing as far as chainsaws go. It's no Stihl or Husqy pro saw and arguably not as robust as something like a 236 or MS180 but once I sharpened the chain properly so it actually cut it operates fine. Dare I say it, it's easier to start than the Husqy and Stihl's I've had too. Lighter and the vibration system seems to work rather well. That kinda pisses me off for some reason haha... Only thing I need to look into on it is that it appears to have an oil leak from underneath - probably a leak from the oil pump gasket or oil tank vent or somesuch. A job for tomorrow. Also need to work out the chainsaw quals angle on it modern arse covering.
Question for you guys out there.
I have a Husqvarna 562XP.
Good saw but I have an issue, it idles ok in the time it takes to position for next ring etc and you are still holding it.
But will not idle for long when you have to move a bit of stuff and place it on the ground.
No problem on big stuff giving it death and cut until you stop it or you run out off fuel.
Any suggestions/tricks to get it to idle for longer/better.
Thanks Owen
Try changing your fuel mix a LITTLE maybe try some higher octane stuff or if are using it try 91. It makes a huge difference in smaller motors.outboards lawnmower too.i found would start easier on 91 but better top end/Boogie with higher octane really noticed it in outboard.
Lift idle rpm screw slightly but not enough to engage clutch
So a question for you saw guys I have a Stihl 460 running a 24"and semi chisel chain.
So when cutting it bogs down and stops like the clutch engauges.
If you know what I mean so have to back out to get chain to spin again then back into it.
So is the clutch getting worn or something else.
Seems worse on a sharp chain as it bites in more.
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The 562XP are auto tune
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Couple of days ago, didn't realise I'd been snapped, still the noise is a bit of a give away. Most will be firewood but I cut a few 2 inch rings that I hope to make occasional tables from. 084 41 inch bar
Does it feel down on power ?
So
Clean air filter
Remove spark arrestor screen from exhaust outlet
Power feels normal but chain stops ?
So
Don’t force the cut
Depth gauges (rakers) too low on chain
Does it cut smooth with no vibration or is it vibrating badly in the cut ?
you know a 700hp truck will pig jump a bit if you ask it to pull 60ton up a hill too,if you miss a gear it will bog down and you will be forced to drop down gears to bottom cog and crawl up hill....
if you have,as you say changed chain till its trying to rip into it...yip it will bog down,slow down ,dig them dogs in and just let it cut,they love lots of revs as havent huge horse power to do job... its all a balancing act.
Your rakers being too low is the problem 100%
To save a chain with rakers too low file every tooth until the rakers are only 20 thou (.5mm) maximum, below the top plate
And to remove the vibration every cutting tooth needs to be exactly the same height/length
Best done with a bench mounted chain grinder
Or measure all the teeth and sharpen to the shortest one
The vibration will be gone and it will actually cut faster
Rakers too low is similar to a 5 ton digger with a 30 ton bucket
You actually slow it down as the bite into the wood is too large for the saws power to maintain a high chain speed
And vibration lifts random teeth out of the cut also slowing the cut down
A well sharpened saw chain needs consideration for the size powerhead your using
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you said same thing I did...just differently LOL and much betterer too.
Awesome thanks guys I have a Jolly bench grinder so I'll cut them all back.
I new some rakes were too low so will sort that first.
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another way to put it..try riding your mountainbike up hill in top gear........
Your well prepared then
Your top plate angle can be anywhere from 25-35 degrees and you won’t notice any difference
But your down angle is able to make quite a difference to engine load, 60 degrees down angle is comfortable for midsize saws and 55 and 50 degrees will suit high hp saws as the closer to 50 degrees down angle the more aggressive the chain self feeds
At any down angle rakers can’t go lower than .5 of a mm below the top plate or the chain gets “grabby” and vibrates and slows down
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When I'm recovering a chain I actually do them by hand - I've had chains written off by taking them to people to get them all returned to the same length and they end up overheating and bluing every other tooth. If you know what you're about and ensure you don't overheat the cutters it's fine but I find no real advantage to doing it by hand with a guided file (Oregon jig thing works quite well). Stuffing the temper can go two ways, either soft cutters which sucks or so hard you can't file the damn things and they need to be ground again early to get them sharp.
Unless a chain is really off spec, can fully sort a 3/8 72 link in about 10-15 minutes. I made a little tensioning doohickey to tighten the chain without the powerhead on the bar - that really helps. I had a ripping chain that clipped something hard that we didn't want, and filed that back to a standard 25deg and that took about 20 minutes to recut and even up the top plates and set the rakers.
Get it sorted, don't keep using it like that as it can cause things to go south in other places. What has been suggested so far is a good place to start, but if you set the chain up correctly and it still worn't play it could be a few other more oddball things causing it too.
Awesome thanks guys
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All ready to run - warmed up for a difficult job on Tuesday . . .
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I always try and buy the best tool for the job . . . Being lectured by a "brand snob" usually tells me the guy doesn't know as much as he thinks he does - be it rifles, saws, tractors you name it! Besides "best for the job" considerations service support etc is also important.
So:
Stihl MS200 Battery saw 12" bar - used nearly everyday for fencing, I run 3 batteries, the petrol saws haven't been riding on the truck for at least 5 years now. Magnificent tool, about equivalent to a good 40cc petrol saw.
Echo 45cc - I got this secondhand and did 10 years of firewood (about 30-40 cubes per year) with it. The chain brake mechanism failed so it couldn't follow me into the fencing business but it still utterly reliable and gets a run when a cattlebeast needs cut down.
Makita DCS 4300 - man I've cut a lot of box stay mortises with this saw, a lot of smaller tree work, and firewood for 7 or 8 years.
Husky 365 Special - new addition to the pack, I needed a grunty 20" to do a particular job cutting a lot of tree roots (the last and most difficult of which I tackle on Tuesday) and I didn't want to be constantly sharpening a 30" bar. Got a dammed near new professional grade saw for $550 via FB.
Husky 181 SE. 30" bar. Got this 10 years ago cause we occasionally have bigger trees to deal with. A old rebuilt bush saw, but man is this one snotty, working with a mobile mill guy he kept asking me to do this and do that with it. I thought he was taking the pics until we both got going at the same time . . . . and the 181 was finishing its bucking cuts well ahead of his modern Stihl 066 or something like that. "Start it like ya stole it" though or it'll tear your arm off and you'll think someone hit your hand with a hammer!
Those little Dolmar/Makita jobs are quite underrated. Actually that's a fair point about brand loyalty, some big name saws are contract built in 3rd party factories and are effectively the same saw as cheaper no name versions. Poulan/Jonsered/Husqvarna, and another is the Homelite/Ryobi types. I hear the homelite version gets a good reputation but avoid the ryobi - same saw different colour! Same with the Poulan, its crap and cheap but the husky and jonnie are go too saws???
Stihl parts are made in China and for certain markets e.g. Germany and USA are assembled in the country of sale . . . and are therefore labeled "Made in the USA" but it's just marketing bullshit! Is there a difference - I don't know but I hate being "taken for a ride" by marketing people.
It's a husqvarna mark 2 36cc ..?
Had it two years approx. Needs a carb kit n a main spring. Talked to the mechanic about it as the seals have gone hard. Apparently 'not used enough...' . Saw is used for farm fencing n self small wood cutting. Not used every day but more than a homeowner saw I'd imagine.
Repair in shop be $250 parts n labour including new chain.
This particular saw will be on special next month for $350 hence why the shop called me.
Could get saw repaired for parts cost only but holding fire at moment n considering options. This thread has being useful for that.
Am a bit disappointed. Thought it would have lasted longer than that.
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