SO spend $350,keep old one for spare parts,you have bar n chain that will flick straight over to start with..and brand new saw will have???12mth warrantee etc
but yes thats not a very good run at all.
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SO spend $350,keep old one for spare parts,you have bar n chain that will flick straight over to start with..and brand new saw will have???12mth warrantee etc
but yes thats not a very good run at all.
Hmm- that's a shame. My Makita (which is lucky to get two runs a year) has a carby problem too - it will start and idle but bogs when asked for power. This lasts anything from 5 min and a dozen starts to 4 hours and 20 or so starts. Then it runs fine for as many tanks of fuel as you can throw at it. From my limited experience I think maybe the carby is getting gummed up, and the several starts are what it takes to clean itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiroahunta
You might have to try the same with your Husky
Attachment 219118Already had the big batteries for a grinder so thought I would see what all the hype is with EV saws........Its impressive!
The wee flexible fuel diaphragm in the carb is getting stiffQuote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
Do you store it empty of fuel as it runs out or do you turn it off before the tanks empty so fuel stays in carb to keep diaphragms/one way valves supple
My big (not that big) saw is a Shindaiwa.
I noticed the hire companies were using them - and not much gets abused like a hire chainsaw.
I mean, what do the Japanese know about small engines or cutting tools?
Have heard 5hat from other sources. Will have to see if local town has dealer/outlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Nolan
Sent from my SM-T225 using Tapatalk
Yeah, nothing flash about the Shindaiwa's but they just go about their work. Have a few usual things that go bad I hear, but from my family in the hire trade they get them cheaper than the equivalent big brand gear so for a business proposition where you aren't likely to spend to fix if it's a few parts and a bit of labour in lieu of straight replacement what's not to like?
Probably not worth paying someone to repair it but they aren't too hard to work on if you have the inclination to have a crack yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiroahunta
I inherited my old mans XL homelite , if anyone wants too see pics of the beast ?
Need to pump a little plastic pump every now and then to oil the chain , no bar lock and heavy as !!
loves to chew through wood though.
Interesting one, the thing with the carby is fuel evaporates out even when the tank is full and it's the oil reside that creates half the issues. I tend to leave the fuel tank tipped out so there's a bit in there after use but not full of fuel. I don't tend to use my gear (the gear I consider my own 'good gear' that doesn't get lent out or sold but doesn't get used that often around the gear I get handed to fix up...) but will try and start them several times a year at least. It's a little hard, my problem is I run out of things to cut! The main thing about storing fuel is it's only considered good for 3 months or so, before it's getting sour and it's easier for my purposes to only run the minimum I have to and not storing full tanks of it to go stale. I haven't had an issue with things going hard or shrinking so far, always a first time I guess...Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
I'm about as mechanical as a brick.....it's certainly not my strength....Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Sent from my SM-T225 using Tapatalk
Ha, they aren't that hard to work on. I'd give you a bit of a lead in but I'm not to be honest totally sure which bits they are quoting as needing replacement. What are they calling the 'main spring'? Not entirely sure what they are referring to with that. The other one is main seals - for me that's crank seals but they don't really go 'hard' they either seal or they don't. Carb kit is easy, although probably even easier is just replace the entire carb. Fairly easy to do, just bloody fiddly on husqy's especially the little ones.
.....yes..fiddly....Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Sent from my SM-T225 using Tapatalk
As one who will freely admit to also being as mechanical as a brick, I got told that storing my saws with fuel in was bad as the fuel evaporates and leaves residue in the carb which causes problems laterQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
What I have been doing when I know the saw isn't going to be used again for at least a month is to drain the fuel out then start it up and let it idle through the last of the juice sitting in the carb and store it after it has conked out from idle - this usually takes a couple of minutes or so
Do you think it is better mechanically to start them all every few months for a few minutes then drain them?
My 088 only gets used every 6 months or so, hence the question
There aren't many good saw mechs around Wgtn IMO - Stihl in Masterton and Husq in Upper Hutt are about it
At todays charge out rates it'd be cheaper to throw a brand new aftermarket carby on a saw, if its playing up. Then watch half a dozen YT;s on tuning a saw. Its relatively easy to do...though you do need to use a small screw driver instead of a brick;)
Ok, on this topic opinions are like bumholes - everyone has one and most people think their's works the best...Quote:
Originally Posted by 308
What I do as I have 'my' saws but end up getting fixer uppers or ones that other people want to fix and most of the time I'm using them and not 'my' ones... So basically after I use them I tip the fuel out of the tank and chuck it back into a fuel can (check to make sure it's not completely fuel of wood pulp and crap first) and then make sure I fill it up every 3 months or so and start them up to keep everything working. Most of the time carby bits and seals go bad if they are stored for long periods of time, so far of about 10 odd years or so after doing this I haven't had a problem. Had to rekit a couple of things prior to that due to old fuel and perished stuff, so went to the dump the tank and it seems to work. I don't run the carby's dry, as for a short time you are turning the engine over without fuel mix going in - ok if you run it out of fuel using it every now and then but as an intentional practice I'm not a fan...
Good point re lack of lubeQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
I'll switch to just running them every 3-4 months and dump the gas out - thanks for your reply
Big tree, cold day, hot saw.
Has something already been through the roof?
No its a derelict house, Norway is depopulating so abandoned houses are common in the countryside around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
Attachment 219982
Brand new this morning from Mitre 10. Last one, was the display one. Was on sale for $220, and while I was looking at it the sales bloke said he'd sell it for $189. I couldn't resist at that point.
dont try boring with that chain...99% sure its hardcore anti kickback chain and they do weird things if tip is used. good bargain. thats one of the old brands that has stood test of time.
Yeah I noticed the chain looked odd (I'm no expert). I bought if mainly as a small saw for my wife and son to learn on, so anti-kick is good.
Yeah that is a good anti chain isnt it? Skip tooth as well as 'bump' drive links... You can see on the tip the bumps sticking up covering the cutter tips stopping them grabbing. Probably not the fastest cutting chain out there haha!
You might find you need to store it empty of oil after a while, the sealing of the oil suction line to the tank is rather basic in these but otherwise effective.
Talking about plunge cuts these guys fell all their trees starting with plunge cuts.
The feller always climbs the tree to cut the tops off. Usually he hauls up an MS881 but with this tree he used smaller saws up top.
Not a particularly big trembesi tree this one.
The logs are hand loaded on to their truck.
https://youtu.be/LLFofYTOTEY
Don't judge me...... :thumbsup:
Got another Havik from Topmaq this time in 22"
Attachment 222655
Not at all. One of my saws is a 52cc Chinese 20" that I've run for 15 years now. One stripped stud on the bar( JB weld threaded now) and it's stone reliable. Just a tad less determined that my 55cc 18" Husky Rancher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Billbob
Apparently these Haviks are a Husqvarna clone, others will know.
Had a 20" for two years and never lost a beat until I lost a screw in the chain brake system and I haven't used it since incase it didn't work in emergency. Got this new one and will fix the old one asap now I know what screw type it is going off this one.
They sort of have a Husqy/Echo-ish look about them don't they? Apparently a lot of those saws are contract-produced by a conglomerate outfit that owns a lot of factories...
how many pinglahlahs did it set you back???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
$280 :thumbsup:
oh well if it lasts 5 years its paid for itself then LOL.
They look like the generic Chinese clone saws, there are various different plastics for them. You can get all the parts for them on alixepress. If it's a well pit together one they are pretty good, from memory the carbs are a bit small on the 50cc plus versions. I've got one I played with during lockdown that started out at 45cc, ended up at 55cc with a ported cylinder an piston modified squish clearance and bigger carb. It cuts significantly faster than my MS260 but is a bastard to start and not as nice to useQuote:
Originally Posted by Billbob
Continuing on the theme of non-Stihlvarna chainsaws, I present a pair of Suburban Gremans
Attachment 223009
The poor old SOLO is a bit worse for wear (done some unspekable jobs) and now enjoys time on the bench whyle the Makita/Dolmar dose the work. Bloody good saw the Makita, light, powerfull and starts every time.
Attachment 223193
Ozito 18v with 10 inch bar…..decent cherry tree but had to charge the battery to finish…..
I’ve had a 346XP for a few years and it’s served me well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
So I borrowed a mate's Stihl MSA 220 C to see how it would go pruning and thinning, and I can now see what everyone is talking about regarding these electric saws. Despite needing a solid 40 minutes with the file on the bar and chain, and unblocking the oiler slot and hole, once I had it not sawing in circles it was brilliant.
So...with the National fieldays around the corner, and hopefully some good deals on the day what thoughts do those of you that uses these regularly have, for whats best. Stihl/Husky? Small or large versions? Will most probably use on 5 to 6 year old pines, up to 200 dia, but usually around 100 dia.
TIA
well I have to say Stihl..... the 250 size range are a great saw.... the ergo start is so easy to use..the Husky will be cheaper both are great brands.
One saw is never enough :)
Stihl 40cc rear handle now then get another Stihl but 70 cc when the trees are larger
Run full chisel chain, with rakers at 20-25 thou
Use a GB Harvester bar if you only want to buy one bar in your lifetime
