Thread: Buggar... scoped moved

Originally Posted by Larskramer

Scope 100% moved. Saw the original mount marks, and after the 50 the scope was at least 20mm difference.

PITA for sure - though to be thorough and sure - I'd start over with the seating testing... cant be left 2nd guessing then, and you can then graph your results and this will indicate where ya nodes lie - 1 vs 2 tight groups etc... then helps lock in a seating depth that allows for wear...

Shit happens, couldnt understand why stage two of a reloading process in the weekend lead to groups opening up a lot. Got a new stock today and bugger me, action screws (on the old stock) were not properly torqued by some margin.

The scope moving forward will cause vertical stringing upwards I expect, so going with the seat depths that have produced narrow horizontal spread would be the best you could do.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

The scope moving forward will cause vertical stringing upwards I expect, so going with the seat depths that have produced narrow horizontal spread would be the best you could do.

Yeah... but also the cross bolts were not even really finger tight....

They must have epic eye relief if you didn’t notice the scope go 20mm foward haha

And loctite bro best friend right their

Originally Posted by Kelton

They must have epic eye relief if you didn’t notice the scope go 20mm foward haha

They just must of moved with each shot, and I didn't click whi I had to keep adjusting the eye peice lol. New scope and all etc.

Originally Posted by Kelton

And loctite bro best friend right their

I been told to never use locktite lol

Originally Posted by Larskramer

I been told to never use locktite lol

Blue loctite and just a tiny amount, also concur with what others have said just start again with your seating depth ladder shouldn't take long to suss out.
I had similar issue recently when trying to rush load dev with my 300wsm the difference was night and day.

Good mate of mine uses a dab of very visible colour nail polish on ring screws and bases.
Bit like the assembly marks left on vehicles or fuel pumps.
It is very visible if they have come loose but in this case wont help if they arent tight to start with

loctite - have seen the results of wrong loctite and scopes - and not pretty - snapped screws - badly damaged threads on rifle trying to get screws out - munted screws- yes make sure of loctite grade if ya must use it but fingernail polish okay in small doses - make sure everything spotlessly clean during assembly -correct screwdriver helps a lot - never use any of it myself -just carefull assembly

I have seen to many occasions where people have bought me rifles that are behaving erratically.
First thing rip scope of and check bases as it needs to be rezeroed any way.
More often than not lose screws from dodgy install.
I always locktite (blue) bases on.
Job done.
Also all the quality rings I assemble I don't use loctite on but always use a torque driver to set to specifications and recheck after a few rounds to make sure every thing is settled.
A tikka problem can be that the recoil lug not seated properly after it has been taken out of stock and put back in.
My 2c

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

@Stocky told me about a very clever trick, applying a very thin smear of Devcon etc to the rings before assembly; this giving a 'perfect' fit without lapping. Product is so thin that it will flake off easily if the scope is swapped out. I cant remember, but he may of suggested a coat of release agent to the rings and scope

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I have seen to many occasions where people have bought me rifles that are behaving erratically.
First thing rip scope of and check bases as it needs to be rezeroed any way.
More often than not lose screws from dodgy install.
I always locktite (blue) bases on.
Job done.
Also all the quality rings I assemble I don't use loctite on but always use a torque driver to set to specifications and recheck after a few rounds to make sure every thing is settled.
A tikka problem can be that the recoil lug not seated properly after it has been taken out of stock and put back in.
My 2c

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Andy, what torque do you use on the cross screws to the rail and the small screws on the rings ?

Originally Posted by Nasty Factory Trigger

PITA for sure - though to be thorough and sure - I'd start over with the seating testing... cant be left 2nd guessing then, and you can then graph your results and this will indicate where ya nodes lie - 1 vs 2 tight groups etc... then helps lock in a seating depth that allows for wear...

Attachment 204428

NFT, that's a tour de force.
Looks like a 6mm PPC ?

I don't like the idea of fitting a single curvy line that runs exactly through all the points on your graph. A regression curve that allows for some uncertainty of measurement in each groups size would be more convincing. You can get some idea of that from the way your 3 group average varies by up to 0.2" from the single measurement on the left. Looks like around CBTO 1.915 should be your sweet spot. Nevertheless, very good work and I wish I had data like that.