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Thread: Help needed ... how to make your own stock ...

  1. #16
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    You could just hog it out roughly and fill with bedding compound

    Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2
    I guess my inital thoughts on the subject was to drill a hole through big enough to start working with and cut out the desired amount, then simply slowly cut away/sand out the area untill everything fits nice and snug... or now with your alternative to cut out untill it fits and then use a compound to build a nice snug fit in there...

    thanks for the thoughts on that part

  2. #17
    Member big_foot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tikka 7/08 View Post
    Bloody brilliant, thanks for that!!!

    I had a look at big_foot's bullpup and now im thinking about that option too... will have to do some thinking and investigating over the weekend to decide what the hell i actually want to achieve with this!!
    That project got extremely complicated (converting to left handed straight pull) and ended up a pound or two heavier than I would have liked. Its also about three times as loud to load it than when it actually goes off

    If I was guna start fresh again I think I'd just leave its action in its original state and just deal with awkward reloading.

  3. #18
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_foot View Post
    That project got extremely complicated (converting to left handed straight pull) and ended up a pound or two heavier than I would have liked. Its also about three times as loud to load it than when it actually goes off

    If I was guna start fresh again I think I'd just leave its action in its original state and just deal with awkward reloading.
    yeah i think i have decided to look at doing a traditional stock to start with..

    While i think your stock looks bad arse might look at doing it down the track... maybe with something more worthy of the effort than my little .22

  4. #19
    Member big_foot's Avatar
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    Yea good choice...I wanna do a similar thing as my .22 to a remy pump .308
    tikka 7/08 likes this.

  5. #20
    Member Eion's Avatar
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    Good luck mate, I was thinking of having a crack too. Keep us posted.

  6. #21
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eion View Post
    Good luck mate, I was thinking of having a crack too. Keep us posted.
    well since i posted this i have done nothing about it... !! might make some time this weekend to atleast go and find some timber to get started with

  7. #22
    dog chaser distant stalker's Avatar
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    I would inlet early in the piece so you have square edges to work with when taking measjrents, setting tools, marking etc. Once that is done the actual shaping isnt a huge task and not technical. At least this way the early enthusiasm will still be fresh while completing the tasks that require the most attention
    7mmsaum and tikka 7/08 like this.

  8. #23
    Gone but not forgotten Gapped axe's Avatar
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    Find someone with a copy router to do the inletting for you. Wood Masters in Rotorua did an inletting job for me years ago. Makes the job easier and quicker
    tikka 7/08 likes this.

  9. #24
    Member kimjon's Avatar
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    Sorry I hadn't looked in this section for a while.

    There are no hard and fast rules, just be prepared to learn from you (or others) mistakes. I do it this way:

    1) make a cardboard template based on another stock. Then I add/subtract LOP, drop at heel and toe etc...until it works for me. I even put a paper towel inner carboard roll on top to act as a ''scope'' to make sure it points the way I want it too.

    2) Move your template around on the blank to find the best fit, looking for nice straight/strong grain through the pistol grip area.

    2) I then cut a datum edge along the top line of the traced template. All measurements will be done off this line.

    3) Next I cut one of the flat sides perfectly square to the top, this will help align the inletting. You can cut both sides if you wish...up to you?

    4) Draw the inletting onto the top of the datum, taking all measurements from one point (back of action tang hole)

    5) Inlet the top of the barrel/action/mag channels by setting up the blank in a vice, and use a router (or mill) to cut in your inletting. Lots of small cuts about 1/4'' at a time. I used the two flat sides as my datums to get everything straight. I use the guides on the router as much as I can, but will often just freehand the router as walnut is a pleasure to cut and you can get away with murder on it. You can even cut against the grain which other timbers would never allow you to do!

    6) Once the inletting is done on the top, I now use a band saw (or what ever you have) to cut out the shape. ****NOTE: LEAVE ABOUT 100MM MORE THAN YOU NEED ON EACH END FRONT AND REAR, THIS IS SO YOU CAN HOLD IT IN A VICE TO WORK ON LATTER WHEN DOING FINAL SHAPING*****

    7) Now inlet the bottom metal. This is tricky and most of the time I freehand it with the router...but take care as this is where the mistakes are often made. Sometimes I even poke the router bit right out and use my fingers under the plate to guage the depth...but this is risky for new players!

    8) Now using a circular saw, cut as much unwanted wood off as possible...

    9) Shape the butt. I work from butt to foreend. This is where the extra 100mm each end comes into play, as you can crank it up in the vice. For this shaping a ''cheese greater'' rasp (sureform????) is the tool of chapions! You'll be amaised how fast the wood just peels off!!!

    10) Do final shaping with P80 sandpaper, then work through the grades switching to wet & dry about 240 grit onwards. I run a house over it when using the wet and dry.

    That's about it really, the rest you'll figure out along the way.












    Best of luck

    kim
    dogmatix, Wirehunt, Bryan and 3 others like this.

  10. #25
    Member big_foot's Avatar
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    Those stocks are F**king beautiful mate.

    Where do you source timber?

  11. #26
    Member kimjon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_foot View Post
    Those stocks are F**king beautiful mate.

    Where do you source timber?
    Mostly reject bits off my brother that he didn't want to use due to minor flaws, I just work around the imperfections or integrate them into my builds.

    He scored a lot of timber off Ted Stone about 20 years ago before he died of cancer. Ted was a master stock maker, a true craftsman!

    I'll be on the look out for more soon, as that last stock on that Weatherby (bottom pic) was my last bit.

    kj

  12. #27
    dog chaser distant stalker's Avatar
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    How did you source the hardware for the adjustable stocks? Very nice work there

  13. #28
    Member kimjon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by horihunter View Post
    How did you source the hardware for the adjustable stocks? Very nice work there
    I made it. I just looked for ideas on the net and copied the general concept - but adapted to my tooling/skill limitations.

    Kj
    distant stalker likes this.

  14. #29
    Member redbang's Avatar
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    I came across this the other day, thinking I might attack my Savage stock. . . . .

    FCP HS Precision stock adjustable cheek install-pic heavy

    . . might spark some ideas. . .

  15. #30
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    My 15mm bamboo laminate panels for my new kitchen arrived yesterday Bound to be some spare over for me to have a go at doing this myself, please keep me/us posted.
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

 

 

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