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Thread: Battery chainsaws

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR500 View Post
    Soldered connection between batteries breaking down??
    Don't think so, they and the spot welds are all tight. The battery cells are all fully charged, the charger is saying charging, then charged, so it appears to be the circuit that has an issue rather than the cells. I have another circuit, but it's a serious pain in the arse changing them over and I can't really be bothered at this stage.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mopheadrob View Post
    Thanks, good info! So is it possible to test the batteries to diagnose, or do I need to try the saw with different batteries?
    Easiest way is try another battery thats known good, and see if that fixes the problem. If that isn't the solution, it is most likely the tool is the issue and in that case it could be a case of stripping the thing down and cleaning everything up. If it's the brush-contacts version, they might be not playing the game and I think this is relatively common in the scheme of things. If it's a brushless one, the simple fixes and most usual causes of problems aren't in the picture!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mmsaum View Post
    You mention “ chatter” in the cut

    Here’s a 592 with the rakers taken down too far

    You can really hear it as he settles into the second cut

    With the rakers filed down the teeth are biting off more fibre than they can clear through their gullet

    “ chatter” also occurs when you have uneven length/angles on the cutting teeth so some teeth are taking more material than others

    When cutting ——smooth is fast!!!

    Last point…….. a lower powered saw accentuates any chain sharpening inaccuracy’s

    https://youtube.com/shorts/yq9xUAuNkbw?feature=share
    Thanks for this! Good to know, will have a look next time I'm behind it.

    At risk of derailing the thread (sorry OP) but I've been taught run the back cut an inch or so higher than the scarf, creating a back-stop to prevent the trunk sliding off the back of the stump, but noticed this guy hasn't done that, but was just dropping a clear trunk. Is that still best-practise, or does it depend a bit on the situation.
    bunji likes this.

  4. #34
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    well......I learnt something new on that one..if pushing tree with digger etc you go BELOW the scarf so digger has something to push on..but you are correct,what you leave is called hindge wood. you DONT cut right through.
    yeah_na_missed likes this.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  5. #35
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    get on utube and watch buckin billy ray....... hilarious but man he knows his shit when it comes to dropping a tree with precision.
    RV1 and yeah_na_missed like this.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  6. #36
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    That distance between the scaff and back cut is very handy in controlling the direction of fall as well as stopping the base from kicking back towards you or any structure

  7. #37
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    I've used a hired Stihl battery chainsaw 3 years ago
    .Was brilliant cutting 150 to 300mm pine h4 posts for house subfloor- having watched the vid Zimmer posted- and being an Ego mower owner and being amazed by that performance- I'd be going Ego chainsaw- I walk past them at the shop daily and am awaiting a time I need one
    dannyb likes this.

  8. #38
    TLB
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    I have used a few.
    Just for smaller occasional jobs the bigger ozito double battery one is hard to beat. Under $400 with batteries and will cut logs far bigger than it's bar length. Best thing is the 5 year replacement warranty. Battery life isn't super but a twin pack of 4ah batteries is only just over 100 bucks.

    For anything that is getting used quite regularly it is hard to go past the Stihl saws. The company I used to work for had a couple and they done us well.
    Haven't tried the Husqvarna ones.
    tetawa, Shearer, m101a1 and 1 others like this.

  9. #39
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    Same. I have an Ozito twin battery at home and use Stihl at work. The Stihl is undoubtably the better saw but then the Ozito was about $200 for the skin. It has done a fair bit of work on firewood and around home and as @TLB said, the 5 year warranty is pretty good.
    TLB, m101a1 and RV1 like this.
    Experience. What you get just after you needed it.

  10. #40
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    Kinda the equivalent of buying a pro model saw vs a homer series - if you are doing lots of work and expecting to get paid for it when a breakdown of the kit stops you getting paid, you tend to stump up for what is likely to be the most reliable. If you're only doing home work or the odd job the cheaper gear probably will work fine for you - I've had a crap run with the Ozito brand gear but to be fair it is actually quite nice to use. I understand that it has gotten better too, the issues I had were all due to internal failure of motors and switches - and replaced under warranty until the retailer ran out of the dodgy designed model when they substituted another. The main thing I had the issues with was a combo die grinder/router doohickey, bloody handy tool but died young. The other was a wet vac of all things, was great in use but the three I had all died young. Replaced under warranty with a Ryobi version, almost identical but a slightly better design electrically.

    As far as the saws, I do hear that they go OK and for the price if you aren't using them commercially what do you have to lose? The only thing I don't like about the 36v units is having to charge two sets of two batteries, you end up needing a bank of chargers and them things are bulky. As bad as a 20L can of petrol!

  11. #41
    308
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    Quote Originally Posted by No.3 View Post
    Kinda the equivalent of buying a pro model saw vs a homer series - if you are doing lots of work and expecting to get paid for it when a breakdown of the kit stops you getting paid, you tend to stump up for what is likely to be the most reliable. If you're only doing home work or the odd job the cheaper gear probably will work fine for you - I've had a crap run with the Ozito brand gear but to be fair it is actually quite nice to use. I understand that it has gotten better too, the issues I had were all due to internal failure of motors and switches - and replaced under warranty until the retailer ran out of the dodgy designed model when they substituted another. The main thing I had the issues with was a combo die grinder/router doohickey, bloody handy tool but died young. The other was a wet vac of all things, was great in use but the three I had all died young. Replaced under warranty with a Ryobi version, almost identical but a slightly better design electrically.

    As far as the saws, I do hear that they go OK and for the price if you aren't using them commercially what do you have to lose? The only thing I don't like about the 36v units is having to charge two sets of two batteries, you end up needing a bank of chargers and them things are bulky. As bad as a 20L can of petrol!
    If you ever met a guy who uses Ryobi, you know he sits down to piss

  12. #42
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    Been using a husky one for about 3 years periodically and had no troubles with it

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by country cuts View Post
    Been using a husky one for about 3 years periodically and had no troubles with it
    Same

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    tetawa and dannyb like this.
    A big fast bullet beats a little fast bullet every time

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308 View Post
    Not the OP's original question but my DeWalt 16inch leaks chain oil all the time and is a bit of a cunt in that regard

    Hasn't put me off electrics as a small saw but will get a Stihl or Husky next time
    Good point, I thought it was me being a messy bugger

  15. #45
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    A friend has a DeWalt pole saw that does the same.
    Experience. What you get just after you needed it.

 

 

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