Thread: 243 loads

Originally Posted by chubby

Im thinking just size the brass so 4 - 5 mm of the neck is sized back to factory , ul get less resistance n the projectile will press in2 the case rather than the barrell , but also use a case without a primer n should take away the hassell of removing the firing pin ( BUT i am no expert n have done this only once )

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The firing pin and spring comes out so your feeling the chambering of the round not the cocking of the spring

Originally Posted by chubby

Im thinking just size the brass so 4 - 5 mm of the neck is sized back to factory , ul get less resistance n the projectile will press in2 the case rather than the barrell , but also use a case without a primer n should take away the hassell of removing the firing pin ( BUT i am no expert n have done this only once )

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I just neck size the fired case completely then run a slice down the centre of the neck with a thin hack saw blade. It holds enough pressure to keep the projectile seated once you find the lands but no chance of it getting stuck in the rifling. The I adjust the die ever so slightly so it's just off the lands.

Originally Posted by Kelton

The firing pin and spring comes out so your feeling the chambering of the round not the cocking of the spring

This is what I do

My son has a T3 and runs 80gr TTSX with 2209. Put one into a nice 8pt jap just under the back bone at the base of the neck. Did some incredible damage to the shoulders.