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Thread: bullet help please

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  1. #16
    Member Blisters's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    @Blisters 50 years ago milsurp 30-06 was my main source of ammo for my 308W. At the time 308W was a prohibited import and only CAC factory was available. The govt of the day protected the local industry (CAC) by not allowing imported 308W. Once CAC folded imports began.

    At the time you could buy milsurp 30-06 for 2 cents a round. I had a vast quantity of it, mainly TW, DEN, and FA head stamps. I used to pull the projectiles, recover the powder (IMR4895), punch out the existing primers (about 1 in 20 went bang). The primer pockets needed the crimp removed for which I made a fluted parallel cutter. I believe you can remove the crimp with a deburring tool. The cases were shortened and FLSized for 308W. The necks ended up being a tad thick but it didn’t cause me any problems in my old Sako.

    As an aside I remember having a session stripping the ammo and tipping the powder out of a case into my container of already pulled and noticing a totally different powder to the 4895. On inspection I found I had just pulled an orphan tracer round which used ball powder not 4895. I used a pretty aggressive inertia system to pull the projectiles. Maybe young and silly, who knows.

    The projectiles were then hollow pointed, same as in your photo, using a wee jig I made. I then reloaded up to 308W specs and used them to cull goats. The projectiles were very effective once hollow pointed. IIRC they were boat tail 150gr but could be wrong about the boat tail.

    Many years later I trassed the remaing powder after it went off.

    The issue of lead core stripping was seemingly a 303B issue, but also may have been largely an urban myth, don’t know. The 303B FMJ had a much more exposed base/lead core to the 30-06. The stories at the time were the cullers used to file the tips off or cut them back with pliers to increase their effectiveness.

    I wouldn’t even bother to fire them. There is a risk of a squib load and maybe a projectile part way down the barrel. The brass should be OK once the primer crimp is removed and neck annealed. Also depends upon the condition inside them. Is it worth the bother? Just buy some new brass.
    Pity they have been hollow pointed otherwise they would have collector value particularly if you have any intact boxes.
    legend cheers for the info, I just threw out 10 boxes.......

 

 

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