Thread: Resizing inconsistency - Am I missing something

Originally Posted by Hg1990

Reloading for 6.5 Creedmoor using Redding Match grade Bushing Die and Redding Press

Once fired Hornady brass all measuring 1.561” on my digital calipers. Have set up the full length die to bump shoulder back .002” with a .290 bushing. All case necks are measuring exactly as they should and most cases are coming out at 1.5575-1.559” but I’m getting random cases at 1.555-1.556”??

Process is to lube cases, resize in press then rotate 180deg then press again. I’m measuring each case as I’m a bit obsessive ��

Have kept those cases that are over sizing aside but I’d like to know if anyone else gets this inconsistency? Is it normal or is there something I’m missing?

I have had a few beers so hopefully this makes sense!

As some have said I find it best to always measure head space using shoulder comparator measurement not OA

To do this properly you need to discover your 'feel' head space and your 'no feel' head space. The difference between these two lengths should be exactly 1 thou.

I always set up my FL dies to bump the shoulder 2thou past my 'no feel' head space. This allows for a bit of dirt/water and shit to enter the chamber and not over chooch the cartridge.

Ultimately it's like seating bullets, it's very hard to get them exactly consistent due to the variation in brass tension/play in press etc which is why we seat them over length, measure them and then adjust a micro seater die accordingly to achieve this consistency.

A thou or two on a headspace measurement isn't the end of the world at all providing that it's under your 'feel head space'.

Bullet seating depth is much more important to get exact IMO especially if you are seating to 'just touch'

I wouldn't bother sizing them, rotating them and resizing them again. I very much doubt that you would notice any difference on paper from doing this.

Originally Posted by Pete_D

Just remember if you measure lots, i.e every case (i've been known to as well) it's not necessarily a bad thing but be prepared for tiny inconsistencies as you describe which can be attributed to many factors. This is not always useful information and sometimes it's best not to get bogged down in the detail and stick to results.

Thanks mate I figured this was the case 😂🤦🏼*♂️

Originally Posted by dirkvanvuuren

Just remember brass get work hardened with firing and with each firing it'll have more and more springback. One of the main reasons people anneal with a AMP annealer is to get the most consistent anneal, thus the brass will have the same level of springback = consistent neck tension and this is true for shoulder bump as well. You can have the best dies, press etc, but if your brass isn't consistently annealed (or not annealed at all) you will have inconsistency in your sizing process. It might not happen in the start of your brass life but will show itself later after multiple firings.

Just another variable to consider. There are quite a few youtube vids about annealing and sizing consistency

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Thanks mate I thought that may be a factor, been looking into the AMP Annealer but can’t afford one atm. I’ve watched just about every video Erik Cortina and F-Class John post so am definitely all the way down the precision rabbit hole 😂

Originally Posted by Tui4Me

I have had a few beers so hopefully this makes sense!

As some have said I find it best to always measure head space using shoulder comparator measurement not OA

To do this properly you need to discover your 'feel' head space and your 'no feel' head space. The difference between these two lengths should be exactly 1 thou.

I always set up my FL dies to bump the shoulder 2thou past my 'no feel' head space. This allows for a bit of dirt/water and shit to enter the chamber and not over chooch the cartridge.

Ultimately it's like seating bullets, it's very hard to get them exactly consistent due to the variation in brass tension/play in press etc which is why we seat them over length, measure them and then adjust a micro seater die accordingly to achieve this consistency.

A thou or two on a headspace measurement isn't the end of the world at all providing that it's under your 'feel head space'.

Bullet seating depth is much more important to get exact IMO especially if you are seating to 'just touch'

I wouldn't bother sizing them, rotating them and resizing them again. I very much doubt that you would notice any difference on paper from doing this.

Definitely makes sense, thanks for the info mate. Have been putting the smaller brass aside so at least I’ll have consistent batches, who knows they may even perform better !

Originally Posted by Hg1990

Thanks mate I thought that may be a factor, been looking into the AMP Annealer but can’t afford one atm. I’ve watched just about every video Erik Cortina and F-Class John post so am definitely all the way down the precision rabbit hole

Honestly, there are a lot of guys offering the service of annealing your brass for say $25/100cases or less. I'd rather just go that route in the mean time until you get the funds together.

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Originally Posted by dirkvanvuuren

Honestly, there are a lot of guys offering the service of annealing your brass for say $25/100cases or less. I'd rather just go that route in the mean time until you get the funds together.

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Will have to see if I can find any near me! Thanks again mate

Can't speak from experience brass wise, but know F class shooters who hate Hornady brass. Tend to stick to Laupa or Norma but in saying that I've had Winchester and ADI brass that shot really well.

Originally Posted by flock

Can't speak from experience brass wise, but know F class shooters who hate Hornady brass. Tend to stick to Laupa or Norma but in saying that I've had Winchester and ADI brass that shot really well.

100% agree. Quality brass will save you a lot of headaches and it lasts longer too.

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Originally Posted by flock

Can't speak from experience brass wise, but know F class shooters who hate Hornady brass. Tend to stick to Laupa or Norma but in saying that I've had Winchester and ADI brass that shot really well.

Don't know about hating Hornady brass. Just never in my mind to use other than Lapua or Peterson.

I'm like you and can't help but to measure all cases Though the more I'm loading the less I'm measuring these days as I just don't need that perfection for my intended level of shooting. 900m steel, 600m deer and up to 300m headshots on meat animals if carrying out whole(conditions permitting) .
I found the same thing as you with the shoulder bump varying slightly. The main causes for me where not cleaning the die out if sizing dirty brass while using Imperial sizing die wax, not lubing the inside & outside of case neck enough (standard F/L dies and graphite) and the biggest issue was not annealing. I also double run in the F/L die to get a more consistent sizing, Probably because of the button expander, 2nd stroke up just feels smoother too.
I anneal every firing with a gas torch and twirl the case by hand for 4-5 seconds and put it down fast! Might not be amp annealer accurate but bloody makes a difference to the brass sizing consistency (never have to readjust dies either) and case life.

Are you using a single-stage press? I may be doing it all wrong but years ago i was getting inconsistencies with .308 brass so after months of pulling hair i opted for buying a total of three rockchucker single stage presses and put each die in its own press. it meant i didn't have to ever adjust the dies and all the brass turned out the same (more or less). also i find it best to use a already sized case that you are happy with to set your die. same with seating and crimp.

Originally Posted by Tirau

I’ve found the most accurate way to control shoulder bump/ headspace is using the competition shell holder set from Redding,

What Tirau says!

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Originally Posted by Roarless20

I'm like you and can't help but to measure all cases Though the more I'm loading the less I'm measuring these days as I just don't need that perfection for my intended level of shooting. 900m steel, 600m deer and up to 300m headshots on meat animals if carrying out whole(conditions permitting) .
I found the same thing as you with the shoulder bump varying slightly. The main causes for me where not cleaning the die out if sizing dirty brass while using Imperial sizing die wax, not lubing the inside & outside of case neck enough (standard F/L dies and graphite) and the biggest issue was not annealing. I also double run in the F/L die to get a more consistent sizing, Probably because of the button expander, 2nd stroke up just feels smoother too.
I anneal every firing with a gas torch and twirl the case by hand for 4-5 seconds and put it down fast! Might not be amp annealer accurate but bloody makes a difference to the brass sizing consistency (never have to readjust dies either) and case life.

Thanks mate, great info. I clean the die every time I resize plus all the brass is cleaned before resizing. I think looking at yours and a few other posts the main issue will be annealing, will have to look into who can anneal for me!

Yep I double run as from F Class Reloaders I’d seen online you can get better concentricity.

Thanks again mate

Originally Posted by nowool

Are you using a single-stage press? I may be doing it all wrong but years ago i was getting inconsistencies with .308 brass so after months of pulling hair i opted for buying a total of three rockchucker single stage presses and put each die in its own press. it meant i didn't have to ever adjust the dies and all the brass turned out the same (more or less). also i find it best to use a already sized case that you are happy with to set your die. same with seating and crimp.

Thanks mate yep using a Redding big boss press and have the die set with a witness mark and don’t adjust the lock ring between sizings.

I am new to reloading.

Have watched and read a lot of information and it gets confusing.

Have "invested" in a press, dies, scales, calipers, brass, powders, projectiles, comparators etc and then read that someone using a Lee Loader set and a hammer held the world record for smallest group for 7 years. So, I bought some of those as well.

Accurate shooting seems to me to be a bit like fly fishing and playing guitars, the more you try to learn the more difficult it seems to become.

In am wondering what things are the most important in learning to shoot more accurately.

Is it the ammo, the gun or a lot more consistent practice?