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Thread: Sporterised Lee Enfields - accuracy ??

  1. #1
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    Sporterised Lee Enfields - accuracy ??

    Hello Guys

    I've just stared my testing program with the No 4 Mk 2 that I'm planning to turn into a MSR (well my take on a Modern Sporting Rifle anyway)

    I'd be interested in what sort of accuracy other folks are achieving with good sporterised (scoped and with handloads tuned to the rifle) 303's. Mine has shot two 3 shot groups so far (125 gn sierra's with 30 gns VV N110 behind them) and seems to be doing about 2-3" groups (somewhat inconclusive cause a scope ring failed) which was pretty pleasing given no tuning yet and the limitations we are working under just now (no decent scope rings). The velocities with N110 were very consistent (2603 fps average with an ES of just 18 fps) so thats gotta help.

    I haven't had a scope on my (deceased) Dads BSA sporterised No 1 Mk 3 for 30 years, when I did it shot just around 2" with Mk VII ball

    Thoughts ??

  2. #2
    Member -BW-'s Avatar
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    Im also interested to know what accuracy other people are getting out of old enfield barrels. I have a Lithgow MkII* which does 3" groups with PPU (No optics). Ive yet to try handloads in it.

  3. #3
    Member john m's Avatar
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    I have a MK 3* scoped that will do 1,5" with 180 gr flat base hand loads, the others 2"-4"( I have 7 303's )
    Velocity is thrilling,but diameter does the real killing.

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    I've done a few and given that the barrel is still good, accuracy is normally quite good. My dad's no4 mk2 would group well under 1 MOA all day long.

    I would normally cut three inches off the original barrel, crown it, thread it for silencer use, bed the front end, drill and tap to mount a scope.

    Worked on the trigger.
    mimms2 likes this.

  5. #5
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    No4mk2 is a good rifle to work with (as long as it’s already been sporterised) trigger hung and will have a newer barrel, slug the bore, see what that comes in at, Ive had bores out to .318, there are a raft of things that can be done to the 303’s , my pick would have been the p14 as that’s a one piece stock, which that in itself is a big plus over the smle and no4’s stock configuration I’ll post a really good article I got of a mate around the accuracy of the 303, I’ve reloaded, cast my own projectiles, done a shit ton of little tricks and some just keep to the 3-4 inch groups, others my fav 3 CAN do sub moa, others projectiles sideways at 25 meters, but that’s the fun part

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klhari View Post
    I've done a few and given that the barrel is still good, accuracy is normally quite good. My dad's no4 mk2 would group well under 1 MOA all day long.

    I would normally cut three inches off the original barrel, crown it, thread it for silencer use, bed the front end, drill and tap to mount a scope.

    Worked on the trigger.
    A few details on how to treat the forend of a No4 Mk2 would be great, I have two, one is free floated, the other (which I can't shoot yet) is bedded (sort of). Thanks

  7. #7
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Chasing Lee Enfield Accuracy - All About EnfieldsAll About Enfields

    Also the rifle was designed around 174gr projectile, I had some luck when I first started before I played with real distance work with the 180 rn mainly due to their diameter and bearing surface.

    I managed to acquire some old target projectiles, but I’m not sure if you can get them anymore?
    257weatherby likes this.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tertle View Post
    No4mk2 is a good rifle to work with (as long as it’s already been sporterised) trigger hung and will have a newer barrel, slug the bore, see what that comes in at, Ive had bores out to .318, there are a raft of things that can be done to the 303’s , my pick would have been the p14 as that’s a one piece stock, which that in itself is a big plus over the smle and no4’s stock configuration I’ll post a really good article I got of a mate around the accuracy of the 303, I’ve reloaded, cast my own projectiles, done a shit ton of little tricks and some just keep to the 3-4 inch groups, others my fav 3 CAN do sub moa, others projectiles sideways at 25 meters, but that’s the fun part
    I have slugged the bores of both I have (but 5 groves are hard to measure accurately) and both are pretty good, around .312 at most, however I've had good luck in other rifles with "current manufacture" projectiles which seem to be more tolerant of obituating up or squeezing down than I recall of efforts 20 or 30 years ago . . .

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    Thats a great article, I've read it and I also have Roger Wadham's "online book" but most stuff isn't so relevant to sporterised No4 Mk 2's with sporting projectiles
    dogmatix likes this.

  10. #10
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    yip use the 180s.......at end of day if its going to be a HUNTING rifle....and more than likely a BUSH HUNTING rifle...well its pretty much a given that 300 yards will be a long shot,so 2-3inches CONSISTANT groups will kill any deer any day of the week without a problem.
    guys get all hung up on having to shoot 1/2" groups........yip they are nice BUT not necessary.
    those ATI synthetic stocks do look rather good on the old girls.

  11. #11
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    I’m going to keep my eye out for a No4mk1/2 FTR and make a hunting rifle out of it, given all the lee’s I owned I’ve never had a dedicated sporterised hunting rifle, I’ll see if I can find load data for you as well, I’ve not done a lot of work on them in a while, I think I’ve couple of Rogers CD’s, clever bugger!

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    I had a few new ex army 303's back in 1960's. Used apeture sights on two that I shot out and then a 2 1/2 power bushnel onthe last one. I shot several Tahr and chamois at 2-400 yards with that rifle and many deer and pigs with all of them at all sorts of ranges. Used all ex army ball ammo 174 grain with tips filed off till a pinhead sixed lead or crayon wax was visible. Always went for shoulder shots and lost bugger all animals.
    mimms2 likes this.
    Summer grass
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    Tentman, remove the top wood, shorten the bottom wood - just shy of the first steel belt/loop.

    To prepare the rifle for bedding Ill run masking tape around the barrel(in the area where the wood stops) to keep a gap of 2mm between the barrel and the wood.
    I'll bed the area around the recoil lug, making sure to bed the area under the barrel as well - 1.5 inches infront of the action.

    The tension created on the frontend between the front action screw and the small bolt that goes right through the wood (near the back end) will keep the wood away from the barrel.

    Nethan Foster has a very nice youtube video about bedding a Lee Enfield no4 mk 1. Google it if you could?
    Last edited by Klhari; 31-03-2020 at 09:11 PM.

  14. #14
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimms2 View Post
    Depends. I like to shoot shit in the brain, and take all the meat.

    I'm sure plenty on here shoot for backstraps and rumps and leave the rest to rot. Fine. If you've got access to plenty. But seems a waste to me.
    what a load of crap......I shot 2 big red hinds last year with 140grn sp from the .270 both were shot at 300-350 yards both fell over after a shot death run...I lost about a cup full of meat off one shoulder on one deer and about the same with the other.....
    what makes you think the rest of animal is left to rot????
    shooting shit in the brain is fine UNLESS it moves and you blow its jaw off so it dies a lingering death......
    see some of us shoot animals in the big vital bit for a reason,I like to be sure its going down fast so I can take it all home to the freezer.
    people in glass houses shouldnt throw stones.

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    They are not expensive, the most I've paid is $350 for an example with a "9 out of 10" barrel - it got held up in the lockdown so I don't have it in hand yet. The two that I do were only $105 (no bolt, but nice barrel still full length, which is a bit of a shame as it would restore well except that its been drilled and tapped) and I think the other one was $240, its got a Parker Hale sporter stock that will be surplus once I make the new ones . . . I'll also have some spare scope mounts.

 

 

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