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Thread: Suppressor Q&A

  1. #16
    Member canross's Avatar
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    Fantastic input - lots of stuff I wouldn't have thought of and haven't seen written elsewhere.


    Quote Originally Posted by DavidGunn View Post
    I have never been a fan of suppressors, the gun makers spend a fortune on experts to get the barrel length right and then send the rifle to NZ where a different expert chops a length off it and adds a suppressor to make it longer than what it was originally...of course if I was in the business of chopping barrels and/or making suppressors I would hate comments made by people like me.
    Fair enough - I don't find long firearms overly problematic to use, so can run a suppressor on a full length barrel - still comes out shorter than a lot of the guns I enjoy shooting I'm really interested in the sound reduction aspect, so while it'll still be loud, I'm hoping it will take the edge off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frogfeatures View Post
    Use the 308 on the 7mm, virtually no difference in noise reduction
    The blast baffle makes sense, that said my DPT predated them, probably had 120-150 rounds through it, minimal erosion.
    Sweet spot on baffles ? What barrel length, factory or hand loads ?
    DPT List the ‘common’ thread sizes on his website.
    Excellent - great to hear that it's commonly done.

    Pretty much exclusively handloads. Usually I try to balance grouping with complete burn by the muzzle for any particular rifle. I guess in retrospect the question didn't have enough information to be properly answerable, was thinking maybe people were in the habit of consistently removing or adding baffles as a matter of course.

    Quote Originally Posted by chainsaw View Post
    DPT are very good light weight suppessors, I have quite a few of them. My primary use is hunting, hence want light weight. If you want max noise reduction then a heavier suppressor will be more effective than DPT, definitely add the ss baffle and for more noise reduction add more baffles. There is a review of lots of different suppressors in Rod&Rifle a year or two back. I’ve attached a photo , not the best, of how they stack up. Last column is noise reduction in dB, remember it’s a log scale. Many of the suppressors run low to mid 20 dB reduction, some of the heavier ones score >30dB. Some of the makes rate less than 20.
    If you’re after a can style then I would recommend you look at the ASE 5. Very short wee can, on the heavy side but good noise reduction.(25dB).
    [SNIP ATTACH]126599[/ATTACH]
    Get a 30cal and it will work for both 308 and 7mm08.
    Thread - the idea is to remove as little meat from the muzzle as you can, that way you lessen the risk of compromising the crown.
    Given you have a light weight shorter bbl on the Tikka and a heavier profile of the 308 you are going to be restricted on thread options based on the Tikka bbl and have to use that thread on the 308. And probably need two different ferrules for the different bbl profiles. Either that or get 2 suppressors.
    Thank you for taking a pic of that table - very good to see them side by side.
    Fair enough on the thread range between the two rifles. I wonder if a thread adapter would suit - thread the suppressor to the larger barrel, then make a thread adapter for the smaller gun with an inside shoulder and smooth inner section to keep the adapter square on the muzzle, and a square shoulder on the back of the adapter for the suppressor. Given that it would be a 308 adapter there would be some additional room for a .284 bullet to pass through the suppressor even if it wasn't totally square, but the adapter should largely solve that. Could even get really fancy and built a barrel tuner into it

    Quote Originally Posted by marky123 View Post
    I used my .30 cal suppressor on my ar15 all the time
    Sniff.
    Hopefully in time these laws can be turned around and we can again.

    Quote Originally Posted by timattalon View Post
    With the thread choice- There are a couple factors that come into play. The inside diameter of the thread has to be large enough to leave some "meat" between the bore and the bottom(deepest) part of the thread cut. But the outside diameter has to be deep enough to have a shoulder for the suppressor to thread up against. For 308 most of mine have been 9/16 as the smith felt that 1/2 was a little closer to the bore than he was comfortable with. With a bull barrel there is plenty of choice but for a pencil barrel not so much.
    Good to know - with the above, I think I may have to look into whether I can do up a centered and concentric thread adapter.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sideshow View Post
    Here’s a few articles from over seas might help or just muddy the waters even more
    https://www.shootinguk.co.uk/guns/so...derators-86396
    https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
    Also from the deerstalking forum in the uk
    https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
    https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co....erator.160210/
    From the varmints community
    Best Moderator ? - Suppressors / Moderators, Bipods, Anything else - UKV - The Place for Precision Rifle Enthusiasts

    https://www.sporting-rifle.com/featu...derator-mania/

    And that should keep you out of trouble for awhile @canross
    Excellent - haven't gotten into UK forums much so hadn't seen those, thank you for the links. Looks like something in the posting process broke the links, but searching the sites seems to be pulling up the right pages.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill999 View Post
    The dpt over barrel is great, Iv had both muzzle forward and over barrel and would reccomended the over barrel
    I do wish there was a smaller barrel diameter cavity when I am screwing it onto my thin barrelled Kimber's
    Just for the extra volume
    Also awesome to be able to add baffles on subsonic guns for extra suppression
    My dpt for a 44/77 ruger has something like 6 extras, some extras I bought and some I borrow off my 45cal dpt
    I have an Oceania defence alpine hunter on the way in 30cal that I plan to start using on everything 30 cal and under
    In the other thread there was the comment stating that every inch of muzzle forward suppressor is equal to 5 inches of overbarrel - do you find there to be a considerable difference in sound between equivalent internal volume suppressors muzzle forward vs overbarrel? Alternatively, is it an aspect of overall length/balance/handling that comes from the overbarrel suppressors?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill999 View Post
    Iv gathered a lot of 1/2-20 threaded guns and suppressors apparently it isn't the best for some reason
    It depends on the barrel thickness
    30cal will work great on a 284. i share suppressor between my 280 and 308.
    I don't bother with the stainless baffle as they are heavy and I'd rather two standard ones for the money.
    I'd just get the standard dpt and add baffles at a later stage if you want quieter
    I only tend to add baffles for subsonics the differences in supers isn't so noticeable.
    Very good points. I hadn't really thought about the fact that you can add additional baffles at lower weight given the same cost, which is very valid. Also interesting that you notice the additional baffles on subsonics but not supersonics. I guess that's an effect of the supersonic crack from the bullet rather than direct muzzle blast.


    All fantastic info, learning a ton from these threads and hopefully it helps some other people out too.

  2. #17
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    if you look at that table of suppresors the one with the greatest sound reduction was the Hardy over barrel, about 6" forward and 6" over the barrel.
    I run one on a 243 and 223 both with 14x1 thread. Just change the rear bush for the different barrel diameters
    Also have a gen 5 and gen 6 on lever actions 243 and 358. Again both 14x1 which could be a trap. You need a bit of a shoulder for them to do up onto.
    These are only 80mm forward and 120mm over barrel only 290 gr. The 44.5mm dia does fill up the scope on the bottom end 1-4x20.
    Hardy and DPT come to a similar result with very different designs. Hardy I believe is a mono core, not cleaned, just a shot of wd40 from time to time.
    DPT has options to add more baffles and a S/S one for high heat applications.
    Z

  3. #18
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    I have a Gunworks suppressor for each of my centrefires. They do not do muzzle forward. Muzzle forward has the advantage of leaving your barrel exposed for cooling. The over barrel brings weigh back from the sharp end, so better for balance, and with the collar on the barrel gives more resistance to torque if you take a knock.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  4. #19
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    Go with your gut and buy the dpt. Good suppressors at a fair price with excellent customer service.

    Ask dpt or your Smith about the best thread for your 2 barrel diameters, I would guess 14x1 will be the go. You can get 5/8x24 on a tikka barrel but only cut down.

  5. #20
    Member canross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZQLewis View Post
    if you look at that table of suppresors the one with the greatest sound reduction was the Hardy over barrel, about 6" forward and 6" over the barrel.
    I run one on a 243 and 223 both with 14x1 thread. Just change the rear bush for the different barrel diameters
    Also have a gen 5 and gen 6 on lever actions 243 and 358. Again both 14x1 which could be a trap. You need a bit of a shoulder for them to do up onto.
    These are only 80mm forward and 120mm over barrel only 290 gr. The 44.5mm dia does fill up the scope on the bottom end 1-4x20.
    Hardy and DPT come to a similar result with very different designs. Hardy I believe is a mono core, not cleaned, just a shot of wd40 from time to time.
    DPT has options to add more baffles and a S/S one for high heat applications.
    Z
    Right on - thank you for the input - seems like you can't really go wrong with both DPT and Hardy. My gut feeling is that if the first baffle does a really good job of redirecting gas flow the expansion chamber back over the barrel is useful, so I wonder if that's what's happening there.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    I have a Gunworks suppressor for each of my centrefires. They do not do muzzle forward. Muzzle forward has the advantage of leaving your barrel exposed for cooling. The over barrel brings weigh back from the sharp end, so better for balance, and with the collar on the barrel gives more resistance to torque if you take a knock.
    Good points, thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick-D View Post
    Go with your gut and buy the dpt. Good suppressors at a fair price with excellent customer service.

    Ask dpt or your Smith about the best thread for your 2 barrel diameters, I would guess 14x1 will be the go. You can get 5/8x24 on a tikka barrel but only cut down.
    Right on - thanks!

  6. #21
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    While we are chating suppressors has anybody ever tested using a .30cal on say 7mm is there much if any real world difference in sound reduction?

    Also is there a worthwhile gain noise reduction to bother increasing the length with hardy stealth vs regular can?

    I Have recently jumped on the suppressor train after 20 years and have been incorrectly supplied a .30 for a 6.8 and 7mm witch shop is happy to swap and was wondering weather it is really worth swapping and if my ocd gets me weather I should swap it for the bigger/quieter stealth model?

    Thoughts appreciated have been holding of using it so I can return if needed

  7. #22
    Bah, humbug ! Frogfeatures's Avatar
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    I used a 30 cal suppressor on one of my 243’s.
    The other had a 6mm calibre. Personally I couldn’t hear any difference in the sounds
    Sorry can’t help with the other questions.
    canross likes this.
    He nui to ngaromanga, he iti to putanga.

    You depart with mighty boasts, but you come back having done little.
    Sounds like a typical hunting trip !

 

 

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