Thread: New truck.

Injector seats and seals get done every 45kms. ($310 incl lab)
That's done to stop the oil getting gunked up and the oil pickup blocking then fucking the motor.
If the injectors are on the way out it'll have a terrible knock mainly when cold and you lightly accelerate. If it does ask for the injector feedback values to be checked and matrix test carried out.
Not cheap to replace the injectors though (2k-2.5K)

@cambo do you know why the valve clearances and injector seals need to be done on the Hilux 1KD-FTV at 45,000km for models manufactured 2005-2011, but not on the ones after? What did they change?

There’s a risk on the fuel limes as well, the more times they’ve been off and retorqued back on, the closer they get to failure.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

@cambo do you know why the valve clearances and injector seals need to be done on the Hilux 1KD-FTV at 45,000km for models manufactured 2005-2011, but not on the ones after? What did they change?

There’s a risk on the fuel limes as well, the more times they’ve been off and retorqued back on, the closer they get to failure.

The valve clearences never get checked. Its a major mission to do them. Toyotas excuse to remove the injectors really.

The seats and seals pre mid 2011? Was due to the design of the injectors and seats. They need to be replaced at 45 ks or they have a tendency to blow out and the compression gasses contaminate the engine oil and the crap blocks the oil pickup. Bad things then can happen.

The injector lines recommended to be replaced 150ks due to the extreme pressures theyre under. The pressure is like 50000kpa or more. Normally only replace them when replacing the injectors or if they crack (which I have seen a few) though.

2011 and later had different design and/or materials and don't need touching.

Originally Posted by cambo

The valve clearences never get checked. Its a major mission to do them. Toyotas excuse to remove the injectors really.

The seats and seals pre mid 2011? Was due to the design of the injectors and seats. They need to be replaced at 45 ks or they have a tendency to blow out and the compression gasses contaminate the engine oil and the crap blocks the oil pickup. Bad things then can happen.

The injector lines recommended to be replaced 150ks due to the extreme pressures theyre under. The pressure is like 50000kpa or more. Normally only replace them when replacing the injectors or if they crack (which I have seen a few) though.

2011 and later had different design and/or materials and don't need touching.

I've got a 2016 2.8 litre hilix with about 98k on it and have noticed it's started to rattle a bit under light acceleration, I am guessing it's the injectors? What should I be asking for and what should I expect when it's goes in for its next service?

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Originally Posted by Brakelie

I've got a 2016 2.8 litre hilix with about 98k on it and have noticed it's started to rattle a bit under light acceleration, I am guessing it's the injectors? What should I be asking for and what should I expect when it's goes in for its next service?

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They're a completely different engine in them (GD series). They have other issues like timing chain tensioners and DPF.

All common rail diesels tend to have a prominent diesel knock compared to normal diesels. Its a characteristic of that design of engine.

Well i see our old bt50 is back at mazda. I hope its just for a service. Best thing we ever did was trade it on the colorado

@cambo anything I should know about the auto mate? While we have the brain of someone who knows stuff.

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Originally Posted by Cartman

@cambo anything I should know about the auto mate? While we have the brain of someone who knows stuff.

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They're actually pretty good. Few had torque converter issues but feck all really. Only really been trucks used for heavy towing.
Fitting an external cooler helps heaps.

Awesome bro cheers I've heard a catch can on the egr? Can help too? Any other little mods you'd do off the bat

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Originally Posted by Cartman

Awesome bro cheers I've heard a catch can on the egr? Can help too? Any other little mods you'd do off the bat.

I’ll disagree with Cambo here slightly and say just fit a catch can. I fitted a Provent on mine when new and I assume the EGR is clean as. We did this to about 50 Hilux 1KD-FTVs in WA at the mine after they a bunch developed symptoms of bunged up EGR. Man the restriction was amazing, the gunk was just the worst.

After the Provents were fitted the 3 vehicles with the highest hours since fitment were selected for inspection. (They spend most of the day idling and tootling about, low kms but constantly running.) Clean as a whistle. Really very good system.

I have heard of a few EGR blanking problems but thats only hearsay, nothing first hand.

However, if your vehicle hasn’t had a can before and no record of the EGR being stripped, I’d get it cleaned out then fit the can, or strip it and blank it. Up to you.

If you go the catch can route, know that I’ve never changed the filter (silly expensive). I wrap them in bog paper to pull most of the oil out, then clean them in petrol, air dry them, go again. Still fine after 100,000km.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

I’ll disagree with Cambo here slightly and say just fit a catch can. I fitted a Provent on mine when new and I assume the EGR is clean as. We did this to about 50 Hilux 1KD-FTVs in WA at the mine after they a bunch developed symptoms of bunged up EGR. Man the restriction was amazing, the gunk was just the worst.

After the Provents were fitted the 3 vehicles with the highest hours since fitment were selected for inspection. (They spend most of the day idling and tootling about, low kms but constantly running.) Clean as a whistle. Really very good system.

I have heard of a few EGR blanking problems but thats only hearsay, nothing first hand.

However, if your vehicle hasn’t had a can before and no record of the EGR being stripped, I’d get it cleaned out then fit the can, or strip it and blank it. Up to you.

If you go the catch can route, know that I’ve never changed the filter (silly expensive). I wrap them in bog paper to pull most of the oil out, then clean them in petrol, air dry them, go again. Still fine after 100,000km.

EGR is a totally different system to a catch can there @Flyblown.

A catch can helps stop oily residue getting into the intake system. Is a good idea though to put 1 on a turbo diesel.
EGR is a emission control system where exhaust gas is recirculated into the intake.

To remove the EGR on a common rail engine it requires a specialist to do as the ECU needs to be altered. Its not a diy thing where you can simply block something off. If its not done properly it will fuck shit up.

EGR blanking on an older diesel like a 1KZ Surf or Prado is easy and recommended to help reduce the risk of cracking the heads

Eh? I thought the whole point of an oil catch can was to remove the oil from the recirculated crankcase vent, which would otherwise mix with the hot EGR gases and bake the oil into hard crusty deposits around the EGR port and the intake manifolds?

Originally Posted by Cartman

Awesome bro cheers I've heard a catch can on the egr? Can help too? Any other little mods you'd do off the bat

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160 will already have a big carbon build up, there is sprays that help to remove it
Catch can to stop vapour mixing with egr or as been said delete it
There is for and against for the deletes but do so research and decide for your self

Originally Posted by longrange308

160 will already have a big carbon build up, there is sprays that help to remove it
Catch can to stop vapour mixing with egr or as been said delete it
There is for and against for the deletes but do so research and decide for your self

A delete will likely fuck my warranty. I'll talk to the Toyota guys. Pretty sure a catch can shouldn't mess with it though. I'll get it done asap

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