Thread: New Maxtoch Torch

Anyone else with trouble feel free to send them to me as they are very quick and easy to fix. Will de-dome in the process if wanted.

If you have a T6 screwdriver and a file the fix is easy. Unscrew the battery tube then unscrew the flange that it screws into with the T6. File the screws down from 6mm to about 4mm, I cleaned them up afterwards by running through an M2x0.4 die. Then file about 1mm off the end of the battery tube that screws into the flange, this stops the battery tube being wound in too far and pushing the circuit board away from the flange that provides the negative contact.

There are a bunch of new screws coming and the T6 screwdrivers are $4 at Mitre10. Not sure if the new screws are 1.5mm Hex or T6; will keep you posted.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

If you have a T6 screwdriver and a file the fix is easy. Unscrew the battery tube then unscrew the flange that it screws into with the T6. File the screws down from 6mm to about 4mm, I cleaned them up afterwards by running through an M2x0.4 die. Then file about 1mm off the end of the battery tube that screws into the flange, this stops the battery tube being wound in too far and pushing the circuit board away from the flange that provides the negative contact.

There are a bunch of new screws coming and the T6 screwdrivers are $4 at Mitre10. Not sure if the new screws are 1.5mm Hex or T6; will keep you posted.

Which model is this an issue with?

Originally Posted by thejavelin

Which model is this an issue with?

M24 from 1st Aug onwards. With the screws being slightly too long that extra bit just pushed the circuit board away from the electrical contact. With shorter screws would likely be OK but I'm filing the tube slightly shorter too.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

M24 from 1st Aug onwards. With the screws being slightly too long that extra bit just pushed the circuit board away from the electrical contact. With shorter screws would likely be OK but I'm filing the tube slightly shorter too.

cheers - good to know.

In last three years we've developed 4-5 designs with Maxtoch. Developments on the original SN6X-2, a model 2S which was excellent, a bigger model 2X which is also great - troublefree, and the M24 scope and/or handheld spottie light. First batch of M24s came out maybe four months ago and were high performance and super reliable - they sold stacks into NZ but were also picked up by police forces so production run sold out v quick. Maxtoch then did second production run of M24 from 1 August this year and the first 4-5 weeks of this M24 run had the glitch. All fixed now over there but a few arrived in NZ. If your lights were ordered pre 1 August you're likely fine.

People mention odd light issues with us from time to time but reality is almost all are due to the following:

* low quality, low mAh, or defective batteries causing poor runtimes. Sometimes one of a pair is defective - hard to track down.
* failing charger. Crap batts or charger = poor runtime.
* dirty or greased/oiled contacts causing loss of conductivity. Don't oil threads except with touch of CRC.
* or perhaps tail switch working loose over time.

Being electronic systems its good to do a careful thread/contact clean from time as routine maintenance. A little wet and dry on tube end contacts from time to time. Also check switches firmly in tailcap, and make sure you don't use cheap crap batts - will not do well in maxtochs with XML leds. Also occasionally clean AR (antireflective) lens with fine optical cloth. A wee bit of maintenance and thought keeps them running v well for years.

Do I dismantle in the same way if I want to dedome??

Originally Posted by SiB

Do I dismantle in the same way if I want to dedome??

No. Undo the bezel on the front and remove the lens and reflector. Pry up the white board in the bottom (undo screws on the models where used) and unsolder the wires to remove the board. De-dome by whatever method you desire and put it all back together. Remove the white nylon round the LED if you are going to apply heat for de-doming and carefully replace it once de-domed.

I had trouble with mine last time i used it and pulled it down thinking it was something like this but it seemed ok once i refitted everything. I might have another look. Mine was screwed together with 1.5mm hex.

That sounds like one of the originals that were fine. How long you had it?

I hereby nominate Brian (gadget) for a good bugger award for the numerous dedomes, people's f-up repairs, and odd maxtoch production errors he fixes. Well done!

ordered mine in may.

Originally Posted by blair993

ordered mine in may.

Should be all good then. Make sure you keep the threads clean and everything is done up.

@gadgetman.

I'm being careful and trying to avoid a fubar.

Lens n bezel off. White disc exposed no screws n two short wires soldered on.

Do I desolder in situ or is there some play in those wires n I pull out a little first?

I then soak the removed led disc in petrol right??

Just wanting to get it right and figuring there'll be one or two others wondering if they shld or shldnt attempt!

Tx. Si

Yes there is play on those wires and you do want to lift it as you de-solder otherwise the huge heat sinking of the head will overwhelm your attempts. I only soak in petrol if the dome is too hard or there is a little bit of the dome material left on the LED surface. If left in petrol too long it will dissolve the phosphorous surface.