Another handy one is Shigley Mecahnical Design, might be a little bit past what you are after though, has little bits of lots of stuff
Another handy one is Shigley Mecahnical Design, might be a little bit past what you are after though, has little bits of lots of stuff
A few points to consider: Any load-bearing recessed corners should always have a radius rather than a sharp corner to reduce the possibility of stress cracks. Good steels and alloys don't cost much more than ordinary ones. Depending on the final use, most modern engineering alloy steels are fine for use in the 'as delivered' state. Use finer threads in hard materials, coarser threads in softer materials. The higher the grade of stainless the harder it is to machine but gives improved corrosion resistance. Conventional engineering alloy steels are generally better to work with. Make use of the data sheets available online from material manufacturers. Design things around standard-sized materials that are available 'off the shelf' and commonly available fasteners. Simple and solid is good!
X2 what he said. You've got to remember that it all comes down to use and what you are building. Some things can be thinner and have more holes closer to the edge than others for example.
As for stainless, our workshop when I was an apprentice did a lot of work for the local dairy factory, brewery and fishing boats.
It was predominantly 316 grade stainless. machining it with carbides was fine but you did have to get everything right if you were drilling and tapping it especially if it was smaller taps. If it work hardened on you it was a bitch and this was the same for other high tensile's.
broken off exhaust studs aren't fun at all
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