Thread: First AR reccomendations

Buy a quality DI AR and be done with it

If you want a piston AR then go for it, but don't get fooled into thinking they're better than DI ARs in every way. It's easy to buy into the 'shits where it eats', 'spews in its own mouth' bullshit (that everyone who doesn't own an AR uses as an excuse for not having one), because it sounds logical that more fouling in the action wouldn't be conducive to reliability. While it isn't, it doesn't cause sporadic unreliability and random malfunctions. The gun will work reliably up until the point that fouling causes to much friction for the action to cycle and the gun will stop (this happens on any auto regardless of operation). For an un-lubed, bone dry M4 it's about 2500 rounds (Test here:The Big M4 Myth: “Fouling caused by the direct impingement gas system makes the M4/M4A1 Carbine unreliable.” | Defense Review). The gun in the test worked 100% reliably up until 2450 rounds. At that point all that was needed to get it working again was lube on the BCG. The same thing will happen on a piston gun it'll just take longer.

The gas that pushes the piston rearward also pushes the gasblock forward with the same force. This produces torque on the barrel while the bullet is still in it, causing potential accuracy loss. On a DI everything happens behind the barrel and in line with it, allowing the barrel to still be essentially free floating and free from forces caused by cycling.

On a DI, gas needs to travel the length of the gas tube before pressurizing the BCG and initiating unlocking of the bolt. On a piston AR, gas starts applying pressure to the piston as soon as the bullet passes the gas port. This causes the bolt to unlock sooner and while there is more barrel pressure pushing the bolt back against the barrel extension. More friction during unlocking = more wear. Extraction also starts while there is more chamber pressure forcing the case against the walls of the chamber, increasing the chance of the extractor slipping off the rim of the case. On a DI, unlocking is not only delayed slightly, but the gas pressure that's pushing the carrier to the rear also pushes the bolt forward relieving some pressure on the bolt during unlocking.

The 416 apparently has a very high cyclic rate 950RPM or something, which allows less time for the extractor, ejector, mag and bolt stop to do their jobs.

So if you want an AR that costs more, is less accurate and wears down its expensive proprietary parts faster, all because you can’t be bothered applying a small amount of lube to your BCG every few thousand rounds, then a piston AR is for you.

Get whatever makes you happy, if that’s a 416 then go for it. Just don’t think that you need one because people who don’t have ARs have given you the ‘shits where it eats’ speech. I used to think I needed one for that reason.

piston guns also have problems with carrier tilt, breaking bolt lugs, weigh more, are harder to get parts for, have other parts to break (piston return springs etc), less parts compatibility with handguards etc, most of the issues people talk about with DI guns are imaginary or overblown (result of poor training/maintenance etc)

From the view point of a normal civilian shooter, I have fired don't know how many rounds through all sorts of AR's - a Vietnam bring back M16A1, to factory Colt, RRA, NEA guns, to homemade Franken guns. All else being equal, as long as the bolt and bolt channel stay wet, where the gas rings rub, the gun will run, doesn't matter how dirty it gets. Keep that carbon in a fluid state and all wear surfaces wet. Run it like would would an engine.

If several K is your price bracket just google Tier 1 Ar15 brands to see whats available. Anything from Colt, BCM, LMT, LWRC, Noveske, Daniel Defence etc usually appears. We will have the DD's in a few weeks starting at 2.7K

Totally buy the DD above, probably the best quality factory gun in the country. Spend the money you save not buying the H&K on an ACOG and suppressor.

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Or get the DD or an NEA (Digits good to deal with) or anything that's not one of those fucking GunCity Rangers. Don't buy any AR from GC and run like hell if they try to sell you a 'tactical' package.

GFL getting a Noveske gun, I've been trying for like 2 years.

We can do E-Cat 300blk Noveskes at the moment.

Can you special order noveske stuff? Custom uppers. I want a very specific thing.

All online reviews aside, there seems to be alot more hate for the pistons than I thought coming from experienced shooters.

That said it seems you are the local importer digit?, if so I heard something along the lines of you possibly be getting in some Sig 556's? And what sort of price would they be here since they retail 1200-1300 USD ( of course there is alot of costs in importing ) but from what I see on (I think yours) ar15.com the prices seem very reasonable and put guncity to shame.

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I was going the get an SR556 before my AR, but the weight on the front was noticable, to a point that it made my mind up on the DI AR...

PM me with any special orders and I will find out how long wait time is. We can do A-Cat versions of Sigs or Noveske depending on availability. Likewise with E-Cats if import permits are provided.
Biggest problem we face at the moment is that Police have clamped down on anything that does not appear on their internal approved list.
Phone me to discuss it in any level of detail.

Can't go wrong with a kitted out NEA-15

After talking to the local AO the other day he seemed extremely against the idea of me ordering in an E cat converted to A cat only to change it back once they give me the endorsement due to all the paperwork, permits and tracking whatnot.

But that was based on me importing it on my own so would having say an A cat sig556 help me get another tick on the reasons for endorsement list for wanting to convert it to E?

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