Thread: show us your chainsaws

Skip tooth is excellent for ripping chain in a mill but really only worth it on longer bars over 36 inch. Of course there are less teeth to sharpen as well

If you have the HP you can pull full house Chisel

But these guys are correct, a skip will be faster

Idle thought - do you guys think the skip/full chisel thing makes any difference on 404 chain?

I wouldn't think so (Stihl 088 saw pulling 42in bar) but thought I'd ask as there is a shitload of things in this world that I don't know

Originally Posted by 308

Idle thought - do you guys think the skip/full chisel thing makes any difference on 404 chain?

I wouldn't think so (Stihl 088 saw pulling 42in bar) but thought I'd ask as there is a shitload of things in this world that I don't know

Yes it will. Or more importantly you will get a higher chain speed that will clear the curf faster. Try a semi skip if you can find one,42" isnt that long,so you might even be able to go up a pin on your sprocket if all you can find is full skip.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

If you have the HP you can pull full house Chisel

But these guys are correct, a skip will be faster

Attachment 278150

Sharpen one side by morning tea time, the other side sharpened by lunch???

So a week ago we had a bit of wind. And as Gums are want to do, one decided to fall down. And 90% of the time they fall down on the fence and into the neighbours. So now I have about 50 ton of gum that needs to travel 100m from his farm over to ours.

Trouble being that the only sensible place for the tree to be dragged across to our side is via the tree stump itself. No small matter as I have just measured it: 7 foot x 5 foot x 15 foot tall





So the prognosis is: prune the buttress so its only 4 foot wide, do some digging so one powerhead can be below ground level and crank up the double ended 48 inch .404 bar.

Progress photos to come

Originally Posted by 308

Idle thought - do you guys think the skip/full chisel thing makes any difference on 404 chain?

I wouldn't think so (Stihl 088 saw pulling 42in bar) but thought I'd ask as there is a shitload of things in this world that I don't know

It makes a huge difference it cuts faster as the motor can keep revs up, it clears better, the only slight downside is the cut isn't quite as smooth. I used to run full chisel and it was ok but going to skip made a huge difference 404 chain, 084, 46 inch solid nose duromatic bar

Originally Posted by XR500

So a week ago we had a bit of wind. And as Gums are want to do, one decided to fall down. And 90% of the time they fall down on the fence and into the neighbours. So now I have about 50 ton of gum that needs to travel 100m from his farm over to ours.

Trouble being that the only sensible place for the tree to be dragged across to our side is via the tree stump itself. No small matter as I have just measured it: 7 foot x 5 foot x 15 foot tall

Attachment 278191

Attachment 278192

So the prognosis is: prune the buttress so its only 4 foot wide, do some digging so one powerhead can be below ground level and crank up the double ended 48 inch .404 bar.

Progress photos to come

Explosives?

I've done a lot of stumping in my time, and this one would need LOTS. too much in fact. And since I still need to be able to drive the dozer over the stump to access each limb through the gap. The last thing I need to negotiate on my dozer is a 30 foot deep crater! Done that in Germany in 65 ton engineer dozers, and it takes an awful lot of gear to get you back out!

Originally Posted by XR500

Sharpen one side by morning tea time, the other side sharpened by lunch???

Probably 5- 10 mins to sharpen

Top plate at 30deg and a down angle of 50 deg with a 10 deg compound angle and sharpen down into the gullet for the best chip clearance/exit

Rakers at 20 thou, 30 if you have the HP, and angled instead of flat

Have a diamond wheel on now it since the pic and it’s the bees knees

You still need to know what you’re doing and why, and the sharpen is small skims to keep the tooth edge temper and a razor edge

Use the best bar oil you can find and keep the chain speed up.

The fastest way through a log isn’t brute strength, it’s finesse and understanding the grain density.

The biggest bars can benefit from extra lube.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

It makes a huge difference it cuts faster as the motor can keep revs up, it clears better, the only slight downside is the cut isn't quite as smooth. I used to run full chisel and it was ok but going to skip made a huge difference 404 chain, 084, 46 inch solid nose duromatic bar

Thanks MH and Norsk, I'll keep an eye out for a semi skip and will look at a bigger bar in future

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Probably 5- 10 mins to sharpen

Top plate at 30deg and a down angle of 50 deg with a 10 deg compound angle and sharpen down into the gullet for the best chip clearance/exit

Rakers at 20 thou, 30 if you have the HP, and angled instead of flat

Have a diamond wheel on now it since the pic and it’s the bees knees

You still need to know what you’re doing and why, and the sharpen is small skims to keep the tooth edge temper and a razor edge

Use the best bar oil you can find and keep the chain speed up.

The fastest way through a log isn’t brute strength, it’s finesse and understanding the grain density.

The biggest bars can benefit from extra lube.



Attachment 278233

I'm still hand filing all mine. I may have to upgrade at some time. Sounds a tad quicker

Speaking of hand filing. Had a long overdue tidy up and shouted myself some new gear at the same time. The file guide is very nice, just keep the pressure light and it works beautifully. Need to find a nice padded canvas/vinyl saw bag now and that’ll be it.

those vallorbe are the best I have ever used the swiss viala second .

56cc stihl and 79cc Dolmar/makita