Thread: BJ73 Landcruiser

Originally Posted by gimp

"apparently" it's "illegal" to remove your sway bar. balls. anyone got a single bracket floating around

Dont tell the 1000s of others who took them out and threw them away.
I even did it to my 2wd moutain biking ute....amazing where that could climb.

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Sway bar is going on for WOF then off again til next WOF. Or until I get cert for none

Failed WOF on no sway bar, windscreen crack (bottom left), vertical play in tie rod ends

Got a new windscreen last week and ordered sway bar bits and whatnot. Chucked the sway bar back on tonight with shiny new links and brackets (which will remain shiny in my garage, not attached to anything for the next 6 months) and did the tie rod and relay rod ends. I'm not convinced there was anything wrong with the tie rod ends but the WOF sheet says "Excessive play" so may as well replace them, and the relay rod ends also because a) it's unclear whether the mechanic would differentiate between the tie rod and relay rod and b) the first tie rod end kit I found came with both. Need an alignment probably but WOF'd again





Anti-seize EVERYTHING




My gearbox (like presumably all H55Fs) has a leak between the transfer case and the gearbox where all the oil migrates from one to the other then starts leaking out. I bought a hose that connects the filler bungs of both to allow the oil levels to even out between them. It's maybe a bit long. I'm not sure how well it will work with the way I've had to route it.

The hose needs to remain lower than the oil level for the oil to move between the gearbox and transfer case. Do both run the same grade oil?
My land cruiser is auto so I am unsure

It is pretty straight forward to drop the transfer case off the box and replace the seals.

Originally Posted by ROKTOY

The hose needs to remain lower than the oil level for te oil to move between the gearbox and transfer case. Do both run the same grade oil?

Yeah I'm going to run it lower when I put the bash plate back on under there. It's super long and would be fuck near dragging on the road if I routed it under the box without the bash plate. Both run 80/90

Originally Posted by gimp

Yeah I'm going to run it lower when I put the bash plate back on under there. It's super long and would be fuck near dragging on the road if I routed it under the box without the bash plate. Both run 80/90

How is that hose connected to the fittings?
Can you cut it to the right size and reconnect them? Or take it into someone like hose and hydraulics in greymouth and get Evan to make you one the right size


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Originally Posted by Smiddy

How is that hose connected to the fittings?
Can you cut it to the right size and reconnect them? Or take it into someone like hose and hydraulics in greymouth and get Evan to make you one the right size


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looks like a push lock barb, should be able to cut off carefully trim to length and push back on.

Gimp just remove one side of the sway Bar Bolt. The whole assembly doesnt have to be completely removed for it to work as if it isn't there. Just the one Bolt (your second pic)

It turns out it's just a push in barb fitting with no locking at all, shortened it.



Also tested the flex with the sway bar attached and it's still able to get up on my half metre high front porch without lifting any wheels



Probably good enough but it's come off anyway, it's annoying breaking the brackets & makes zero difference on the road.

Hope to give it a good workout on the east coast next week now

That transfer box is looking to shiny, needs a nice layer of mud over your new hose as well!

Today is 1 year since I bought a Landcruiser! Drove to the East Coast a couple of days ago to go hunting but the river decided to rise rapidly (after I checked the levels at home) and stayed too high to cross safely, so I came home after shooting some rabbits in the riverbed. Back to about 10.6L/100km now for highway driving since adjusting the fuel.



boooo








Truck went great for as far up the river as I could go.

Noticed on the highway that the temp gauge was getting quite high when uphill or into strong headwinds, have never really noticed much movement in it previously - perhaps the ARB bar blocks the airflow? Was hot weather also. Anyway decided to pull out the air conditioning condenser since the aircon doesn't work and I don't really want it, and the condenser blocks some airflow to the radiator. Pulled the whole lot out including idle up VSV, compressor, etc - just the stuff under the dash remains.



Found a leak in the radiator core. There's also the beginnings of a weep around the bottom hose barb thing so I guess either repairs or a new radiator are in my future.




So much extra space in the engine bay!

Have noticed I need new shocks and have a leak from my power steering box to fix.

Good hose down should get rid of the cobwebs,all that crap won't be doing the cooling any favours.

Yeah that's on the to-do list

Used to blow my rads out with the air compressor in Namibia once a day! As you would end up with a lot of insect life and dust etc, works really well and helps in keeping the air flowing. Just do it from the back ah, then your not pushing any seed etc into the rad. Keep some matches in your glove box just incase it springs a leak when your in the back country and egg can also save your bacon.