Thread: Show me your knives

@hotbarrels, it's an interesting question , I have my own thoughts on knives and materials and design.
I think of them as functional art , first and fore most they have to do what they are designed to do , CUT, but I like them to look nice too.
As for the steel choice it goes back to the function , I like a steel that holds a great edge but also that can be re-sharpened in the field without amazing tools or skills.
All knives go blunt so all knives need to be sharpened. There are some very skilled hunters with great skills for sharpening a knife but there are also plenty who have average to poor skills and need a steel they can get a result from.
High carbon steels and some stainless offer these characteristics and like you have mentioned you enjoy them as a working blade.
I don't offer the super steels and really I don't have any great interest in them as I like to make knives that work for people in the kitchen or field.
The old steels like 1075 , 1084, 1095 , 01 tool steel etc have been around many years and for good reason.
I would think there are a lot of blunt super steel knives out there that the owners will never get sharp again .

Originally Posted by viper

@hotbarrels, it's an interesting question , I have my own thoughts on knives and materials and design.
I think of them as functional art , first and fore most they have to do what they are designed to do , CUT, but I like them to look nice too.
As for the steel choice it goes back to the function , I like a steel that holds a great edge but also that can be re-sharpened in the field without amazing tools or skills.
All knives go blunt so all knives need to be sharpened. There are some very skilled hunters with great skills for sharpening a knife but there are also plenty who have average to poor skills and need a steel they can get a result from.
High carbon steels and some stainless offer these characteristics and like you have mentioned you enjoy them as a working blade.
I don't offer the super steels and really I don't have any great interest in them as I like to make knives that work for people in the kitchen or field.
The old steels like 1075 , 1084, 1095 , 01 tool steel etc have been around many years and for good reason.
I would think there are a lot of blunt super steel knives out there that the owners will never get sharp again .

The 10xx series of steel (plus 01) are certainly up there for good using blades although lately I have been looking at the 80CRV2 (an improved 1084 with chromium and vandium in place of the O1)that has been getting very good reviews I am also a believer in the carbon steels for field use with a cryo treated NitroV stainless for kitchen use where stainless is prefered otherwise it is the 10XX series.

Originally Posted by Von Gruff Knives

The 10xx series of steel (plus 01) are certainly up there for good using blades although lately I have been looking at the 80CRV2 (an improved 1084 with chromium and vandium in place of the O1)that has been getting very good reviews I am also a believer in the carbon steels for field use with a cryo treated NitroV stainless for kitchen use where stainless is prefered otherwise it is the 10XX series.

I tend to stay away from the 10xx and instead opt for O1, I figure if you are going to go and make the effort you might as well get damn fine small carbides in the process, although recently I have got hold of some nitro v and am seeing how that works out, my goal is to get some of this new cpm Magna cut, which is the first steel since aeb-l actually made for knives (as opposed to steel made for other purposes and can also be used for knives).

A quick question to all our forum knife gurus, im playing with the idea of buying a Condor knife blank off Blademasters and making NZ hardwood scales for it.....

as a 'virgin' which of these three would you suggest, Matai, Totara or Rimu......as regards filing, sanding and the finish at the end....if i dont "bin it'....

Originally Posted by Scouser

A quick question to all our forum knife gurus, im playing with the idea of buying a Condor knife blank off Blademasters and making NZ hardwood scales for it.....

as a 'virgin' which of these three would you suggest, Matai, Totara or Rimu......as regards filing, sanding and the finish at the end....if i dont "bin it'....

Matai then Rimu then Totara in order of suitability if not stabilised

Black maire is a really good native option, very dense timber.

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Matai then Rimu then Totara in order of suitability if not stabilised

Black maire is a really good native option, very dense timber.

I used Black Maire on this knife I made 20 odd years ago. It is my go to hunting knife and the handle has not shown any sign of deteriorating.
It was interesting to work. I ended up using an angle grinder to shape it as it was so hard.


I have also used Bamboo flooring as knife handles. It is a bit plain but seems very stable.

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Matai then Rimu then Totara in order of suitability if not stabilised

Black maire is a really good native option, very dense timber.

Big thanks Nick, theres a guy on TM selling pieces and i quote "Shed dry for at leased 20 years" shall i give it a go?

Originally Posted by Scouser

Big thanks Nick, theres a guy on TM selling pieces and i quote "Shed dry for at leased 20 years" shall i give it a go?

What about Jarra ? Piece off an old hardwood power pole.
Amongst native timber a bit of Rata would be superb. Source would be West coast drift wood

Originally Posted by Scouser

Big thanks Nick, theres a guy on TM selling pieces and i quote "Shed dry for at leased 20 years" shall i give it a go?

Yup if he's not talking shit, good dry timber is a great place to start.

Originally Posted by Scouser

Big thanks Nick, theres a guy on TM selling pieces and i quote "Shed dry for at leased 20 years" shall i give it a go?

It all comes down to moisture content at the end of the day.

20 years in an open shed in the Buller vs 20 years in Central Otago will give two different moisture contents.

You ideally want 12% or less.

I put Kauri grips on my kiwi knife,although its a soft timber 20 years later they are still fine.

Originally Posted by norsk

It all comes down to moisture content at the end of the day.

20 years in an open shed in the Buller vs 20 years in Central Otago will give two different moisture contents.

You ideally want 12% or less.

I put Kauri grips on my kiwi knife,although its a soft timber 20 years later they are still fine.

Stabilising is the way to go for alamost all knife handle wood for elimination of moisture uptake and also adds a toughness to the wood that aids in wear resistance. I have a reasonable amount of swamp Kauri and have used it on a number of knives for those in the US who want NZ woods.

I must agree about the ability to sharpen and understanding angles, my aebl knive is at 17%, shaves like a razor, my kershaw steel will not take 17% it will chip ( very minuscule chips) so is 20% shaves, my 01 steel knife is at 25% shaves. You can make any knife razor sharp if you get the angle right and finish on a strop. As for carbon steel opinel says it all great knives.

What is involved in stabilising the wood


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Originally Posted by MSL

What is involved in stabilising the wood


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Appropriate resin, a vacuum chamber and lots of time. I don't do it myself personally. Takes to long to do a decent job

Just finished a lockdown project that was rudely interrupted by another addition to the family.