Thread: show us your chainsaws

Originally Posted by No.3

Probably not worth paying someone to repair it but they aren't too hard to work on if you have the inclination to have a crack yourself.

I'm about as mechanical as a brick.....it's certainly not my strength....

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Ha, they aren't that hard to work on. I'd give you a bit of a lead in but I'm not to be honest totally sure which bits they are quoting as needing replacement. What are they calling the 'main spring'? Not entirely sure what they are referring to with that. The other one is main seals - for me that's crank seals but they don't really go 'hard' they either seal or they don't. Carb kit is easy, although probably even easier is just replace the entire carb. Fairly easy to do, just bloody fiddly on husqy's especially the little ones.

Originally Posted by No.3

Ha, they aren't that hard to work on. I'd give you a bit of a lead in but I'm not to be honest totally sure which bits they are quoting as needing replacement. What are they calling the 'main spring'? Not entirely sure what they are referring to with that. The other one is main seals - for me that's crank seals but they don't really go 'hard' they either seal or they don't. Carb kit is easy, although probably even easier is just replace the entire carb. Fairly easy to do, just bloody fiddly on husqy's especially the little ones.

.....yes..fiddly....

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Originally Posted by No.3

Interesting one, the thing with the carby is fuel evaporates out even when the tank is full and it's the oil reside that creates half the issues. I tend to leave the fuel tank tipped out so there's a bit in there after use but not full of fuel. I don't tend to use my gear (the gear I consider my own 'good gear' that doesn't get lent out or sold but doesn't get used that often around the gear I get handed to fix up...) but will try and start them several times a year at least. It's a little hard, my problem is I run out of things to cut! The main thing about storing fuel is it's only considered good for 3 months or so, before it's getting sour and it's easier for my purposes to only run the minimum I have to and not storing full tanks of it to go stale. I haven't had an issue with things going hard or shrinking so far, always a first time I guess...

As one who will freely admit to also being as mechanical as a brick, I got told that storing my saws with fuel in was bad as the fuel evaporates and leaves residue in the carb which causes problems later

What I have been doing when I know the saw isn't going to be used again for at least a month is to drain the fuel out then start it up and let it idle through the last of the juice sitting in the carb and store it after it has conked out from idle - this usually takes a couple of minutes or so

Do you think it is better mechanically to start them all every few months for a few minutes then drain them?
My 088 only gets used every 6 months or so, hence the question

There aren't many good saw mechs around Wgtn IMO - Stihl in Masterton and Husq in Upper Hutt are about it

At todays charge out rates it'd be cheaper to throw a brand new aftermarket carby on a saw, if its playing up. Then watch half a dozen YT;s on tuning a saw. Its relatively easy to do...though you do need to use a small screw driver instead of a brick

Originally Posted by 308

As one who will freely admit to also being as mechanical as a brick, I got told that storing my saws with fuel in was bad as the fuel evaporates and leaves residue in the carb which causes problems later

What I have been doing when I know the saw isn't going to be used again for at least a month is to drain the fuel out then start it up and let it idle through the last of the juice sitting in the carb and store it after it has conked out from idle - this usually takes a couple of minutes or so

Do you think it is better mechanically to start them all every few months for a few minutes then drain them?
My 088 only gets used every 6 months or so, hence the question

There aren't many good saw mechs around Wgtn IMO - Stihl in Masterton and Husq in Upper Hutt are about it

Ok, on this topic opinions are like bumholes - everyone has one and most people think their's works the best...

What I do as I have 'my' saws but end up getting fixer uppers or ones that other people want to fix and most of the time I'm using them and not 'my' ones... So basically after I use them I tip the fuel out of the tank and chuck it back into a fuel can (check to make sure it's not completely fuel of wood pulp and crap first) and then make sure I fill it up every 3 months or so and start them up to keep everything working. Most of the time carby bits and seals go bad if they are stored for long periods of time, so far of about 10 odd years or so after doing this I haven't had a problem. Had to rekit a couple of things prior to that due to old fuel and perished stuff, so went to the dump the tank and it seems to work. I don't run the carby's dry, as for a short time you are turning the engine over without fuel mix going in - ok if you run it out of fuel using it every now and then but as an intentional practice I'm not a fan...

Originally Posted by No.3

Ok, on this topic opinions are like bumholes - everyone has one and most people think their's works the best...

What I do as I have 'my' saws but end up getting fixer uppers or ones that other people want to fix and most of the time I'm using them and not 'my' ones... So basically after I use them I tip the fuel out of the tank and chuck it back into a fuel can (check to make sure it's not completely fuel of wood pulp and crap first) and then make sure I fill it up every 3 months or so and start them up to keep everything working. Most of the time carby bits and seals go bad if they are stored for long periods of time, so far of about 10 odd years or so after doing this I haven't had a problem. Had to rekit a couple of things prior to that due to old fuel and perished stuff, so went to the dump the tank and it seems to work. I don't run the carby's dry, as for a short time you are turning the engine over without fuel mix going in - ok if you run it out of fuel using it every now and then but as an intentional practice I'm not a fan...

Good point re lack of lube

I'll switch to just running them every 3-4 months and dump the gas out - thanks for your reply

Big tree, cold day, hot saw.

Has something already been through the roof?

Originally Posted by Shearer

Has something already been through the roof?

No its a derelict house, Norway is depopulating so abandoned houses are common in the countryside around here.

Brand new this morning from Mitre 10. Last one, was the display one. Was on sale for $220, and while I was looking at it the sales bloke said he'd sell it for $189. I couldn't resist at that point.

dont try boring with that chain...99% sure its hardcore anti kickback chain and they do weird things if tip is used. good bargain. thats one of the old brands that has stood test of time.

Yeah I noticed the chain looked odd (I'm no expert). I bought if mainly as a small saw for my wife and son to learn on, so anti-kick is good.

Yeah that is a good anti chain isnt it? Skip tooth as well as 'bump' drive links... You can see on the tip the bumps sticking up covering the cutter tips stopping them grabbing. Probably not the fastest cutting chain out there haha!

You might find you need to store it empty of oil after a while, the sealing of the oil suction line to the tank is rather basic in these but otherwise effective.

Talking about plunge cuts these guys fell all their trees starting with plunge cuts.

The feller always climbs the tree to cut the tops off. Usually he hauls up an MS881 but with this tree he used smaller saws up top.

Not a particularly big trembesi tree this one.

The logs are hand loaded on to their truck.

https://youtu.be/LLFofYTOTEY